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Rustproofing Sills


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#1 sonscar

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 09:47 AM

After renewing the inner and outer sills it would seem prudent to rustproof them.I have some Dinitrol cavity wax which I use on my other classics and intend to use on this.How do you inject the wax?On my other cars the sills are full of factory holes which I have used but the Mini has only the vents.I am Tempted to drill some holes in the inner sills to insert the lance,one before the crossmember and one after it.How do you do it please?Steve..



#2 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 10:00 AM

I just went in through the vents with the Dinitrol aerosol extension hose nozzle attachment.  That reached the ends and seemed to provide good coverage.



#3 sonscar

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 10:05 AM

I do not have the aerosol as I buy the 1litre cans and use a pressure injector which has a much thicker(less useful?) hose.Lesson for the future perhaps.Thanks for your input.Steve..



#4 KTS

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 11:37 AM

maybe keep the cans for your other classics and invest in a couple of aerosols and an extension for the mini ?

 

with the aerosol extensions you won't need to be drilling any additional holes and should also be able to treat other areas like the A & B posts from sill to roof and bulkhead crossmember quite easily.  the long extension piece means you can access/treat most of the sill cavity through the toeboard by removing one of the subframe mounting bolts



#5 bpirie1000

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 06:40 PM

Watch how you do this. I had a mini done like this before and in a hot, hot summer it leaked out...

#6 MikeRotherham

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Posted 18 December 2019 - 10:24 PM

Watch how you do this. I had a mini done like this before and in a hot, hot summer it leaked out...


I think this used to be par for the course years ago with petroleum based products. I think the latest stuff I used a couple of years ago was different, not sure if was water based, but it certainly smelled different and hasn't dripped the same.

#7 sonscar

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 09:26 AM

Thanks for the input.I am going to drill some 8mm holes before and after the crossmember and use my existing rustproofing setup which I know to give excellent coverage.I like to see the product leaking out of the seams as I think it shows good seam penetration(or am I thinking wishfully?)Thanks again,Steve..



#8 Bobbins

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 11:36 AM

I can't comment on Dinitrol, but from past experience with Waxoyl in hot weather it gets fluid enough to pass through pop rivets. I'm sure the modern products from Bilt Hamber etc are much better.



#9 sonikk4

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 12:41 PM

If rivets are letting fluid through then they cannot be installed correctly, either that or they have loosened through age.

However if Waxoyl is seeping past then at least a coating will still be left no matter what. Dinitrol depending on the type comes in varying degrees of viscosity and has a good temperature range of usability. I use either a Aerosol version or a brushable type. All Aerospace varieties.

The biggest thing with Dinitrol and any Wax based Aerosol product YOU MUST use a proper mask. If you inhale too much you can literally drown in your own fluids. Please ensure you read the instructions folks. It may seem innocuous but it can do serious harm.

#10 Bobbins

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 03:11 PM

If rivets are letting fluid through then they cannot be installed correctly, either that or they have loosened through age.

 

Nope, rivets are not designed to be water / fluid tight, that's why you can buy closed end rivets.

 

The Waxoyl leaks through the rivet itself, not around it as it would if badly fitted. 



#11 andyapanel

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 04:51 PM

My kit has a long plastic lance which seems to work fine.. I use a compressor, though, with a Sealey gun.

I block all the holes with tissue paper Iexcept the one I have stuck the lance up, then fire up the gun.

On the subject of weepage, I had a new pick up tank leak fuel through the sender unit screws, so I would be prepared to believe good rivets could weep, too, if the waxy was thin and warm.

Good luck; its not as messy as some folk claim.



#12 sonikk4

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 06:04 PM

 

If rivets are letting fluid through then they cannot be installed correctly, either that or they have loosened through age.

 
Nope, rivets are not designed to be water / fluid tight, that's why you can buy closed end rivets.
 
The Waxoyl leaks through the rivet itself, not around it as it would if badly fitted.

Solid rivets are designed to be fluid tight providing they are pitched correctly. If you are on about Pop rivets then yes I will agree with you as they are only a light weight rivet not destined to take heavy loads or seal. But you can make fluid tight using a drop of sealant on installation.

Any modern aircraft is constructed using a multitude of different rivets and if the large majority of them are not fluid / air tight you would have a very leaky fuselage / wings etc.



#13 Bobbins

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Posted 19 December 2019 - 08:27 PM

If rivets are letting fluid through then they cannot be installed correctly, either that or they have loosened through age.

 
Nope, rivets are not designed to be water / fluid tight, that's why you can buy closed end rivets.
 
The Waxoyl leaks through the rivet itself, not around it as it would if badly fitted.

Solid rivets are designed to be fluid tight providing they are pitched correctly. If you are on about Pop rivets then yes I will agree with you as they are only a light weight rivet not destined to take heavy loads or seal. But you can make fluid tight using a drop of seal to on installation.

Any modern aircraft is constructed using a multitude of different rivets and if the large majority of them are not fluid / air tight you would have a very leaky fuselage / wings etc.

Yes my statement was regarding pop rivets. Coincidentally my partner's son works on the wings at Airbus ... and he tells me they use Dinitrol sealing products.

#14 monkey

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 07:58 AM

I need to do this in the new year too as I have just got my car back after floor/sill replacement.

Any recommendations for peoples favourite product?

Also, other than the sills and crossmember, is there anywhere else I should treat while I’m at it?

Cheers

#15 MacGyver

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Posted 27 December 2019 - 08:03 AM

Dinitrol products. ML is a good one.
Plenty of places to put some in like: the doors, the closed bits either side of the rear valance, behind the rear lights, the A-B pillars and around the headlights. Must be a few more I missed... ?

Ben


Edit:spelling... ?

Edited by MacGyver, 27 December 2019 - 08:04 AM.





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