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Timing Chain Cover Gasket


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#46 leepol83

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 05:16 PM

R right ok that makes sense I’m sure there all the same diameter as in thickness but some shorter than others what does it meen by diameter ?
Thank you

#47 DeadSquare

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 05:18 PM

Brilliant ok I’ll go with that then I’m still confused about the torque settings a little it just seems strange to do one side of the cover more than the other are we sure we are on about the same thing here
The bolts that hold on the timing cover itself all the way around it on the outside where the breather is on ?

I’ve another question got some gaskets today from Minispares and was wondering is there a way to fit them as one side is a different colour to the other ?
I’ve got timing chain cover which is black one side red the other side
And a water pump gasket which is green one side and black the other side
Cheers guys appreciate it as always to forum

 

When you look at the gaskets you will realise that the holes only line up if you fit them correctly.



#48 leepol83

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 06:01 PM

R yes it looks like they’ll only fit one way ? thanks for that never even thought if that ?

#49 leepol83

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 06:37 PM

The blue strip is a sealant like Hylomar. It's "encapsulated" like posh wrinkle cream, it gets squeezed out when you do the bolts up.


The trick to not leaking oil is to fit the pulley before nipping up the cover bolts so the shaft can centre itself in the oil seal.

Also, don't over tighten 'em & gradually do up opposites - e.g. start at 12 o'clcock then 6,11,5,1,7..... or 12,4,8,1,5,9... if you prefer


Do I fully torque up the large pully bolt before tightening the pully cover bolts ?

#50 GraemeC

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 06:53 PM

They’re not all the same diameter - some are 1/4” UNF, some are 5/16” UNF. 

On an A+ set with the reduced head size machine screws these are 3/8” and 7/16” AF spanner sizes.

You’ll notice the holes in the gasket are two different sizes - generally the bigger set screws go into the block, the smaller ones just into the backplate - you need to be carful with these as there isn’t much thread depth and they soon strip.

 

No, don’t fully torque the bolt. As once you have some screws in to hold the cover in place you will need to remove the pulley to get to the bottom ones.


Edited by GraemeC, 03 January 2020 - 06:54 PM.


#51 leepol83

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 07:11 PM

They’re not all the same diameter - some are 1/4” UNF, some are 5/16” UNF.
On an A+ set with the reduced head size machine screws these are 3/8” and 7/16” AF spanner sizes.
You’ll notice the holes in the gasket are two different sizes - generally the bigger set screws go into the block, the smaller ones just into the backplate - you need to be carful with these as there isn’t much thread depth and they soon strip.

No, don’t fully torque the bolt. As once you have some screws in to hold the cover in place you will need to remove the pulley to get to the bottom ones.


So just nip the large nut on then for a start with the pully in place and do the cover bolts up then remove large bolt, torque cover bolts up then refit and torque large bolt

#52 GraemeC

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 07:18 PM

You don’t even need to fit the bolt initially, just slide the pulley onto the crank nose to centre the seal



#53 leepol83

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 07:40 PM

You don’t even need to fit the bolt initially, just slide the pulley onto the crank nose to centre the seal


Brilliant top advice thank you ? ?

#54 Dusky

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 07:50 PM

And that's where the difference between torque on the bolt and clamping load is. :)

#55 Ethel

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 09:03 PM

Also, smaller fasteners usually have finer thread pitch. A screw thread is really just a rotary wedge & a shallow wedge, like pushing a trolley up a slope, takes less force than a steeper one - you just have to push it further to get to the same height.

#56 leepol83

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Posted 03 January 2020 - 09:12 PM

Thanks for all the help with this I feel a lot more confident attacking the job with some knowledge now I’ll crack on in the morning

#57 leepol83

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Posted 21 January 2020 - 07:55 PM

Hi all another quick one
What size fuel spring clamps do I need on the mpi fuel pump pipes or fuel pipes in general on the mpi I’ve put on a 12mm but seems a little not loose but not exactly tight ! And 11mm seems really tight and can’t really get one on
Thank you all

#58 leepol83

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Posted 29 January 2020 - 07:24 PM

Hi chaps still trying to get fuel pipe clamps sorted, can anyone tell me the outside diameter of the fuel pipe from the filter on the mpi it’s this on Minispares ( WKB10018L )
I’ve just been up my unit and completely forgot to measure it and could do with getting clamps ordered

#59 Spider

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Posted 30 January 2020 - 12:02 AM

(I've changed the title of the thread to be topic specific)



#60 AP2020

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Posted 30 January 2020 - 02:20 AM

So the 2 torque settings are for all of the outer case bolts, I did notice half of them where smaller on the way round, how will that be evenly torqued up if half are set to 10-12lbft and half are set to 4-6lbft

 

It's a little more complex than simple straight forward stretch as the larger diameter screw will need more torque to get the same stretch due to the thread mating surfaces being greater in area for the larger screw than the smaller screw, due to friction.

 

If you applied the "normal torque" figure for each size the clamping load would be far too high and damage to the gasket would occur.






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