23 replies to this topic

[Underdose]

Hello, last year I purchased a 1997 Japanese import Mini Cooper. Although moderately knowledgable about engines from racing motorbikes when I was young I am fairly ignorant. Though I am learning very quickly it seems with all the little problems I have already had to fix. Now, I am fairly sure my mini needs a new or uprated alternator, as I seem to have to choose between headlights, radio or air con/heater. But not at the same time as it seems to just cut out on idle or clutching in at junctions. My question is, and is quite broad, do I use an MPi alternator like a British mini at that year or is it an SPi alternator which from internet research Japanese minis seem to be. In fact, any information on Japanese minis of this year would be greatly appreciated, as I have fuelling issues but the internet seems to have lots of contradictory information on what is different on these minis. From what I gather, its an SPi but an MPi everything else, with a Japanese specific ECU? 

 

I have a thousand questions, and every problem I fix seems to open up more questions. So I apologise now before I start the excessive noobiness.

 

Thank you, Jd. 

 

 

[Wazzah]

Hello, last year I purchased a 1997 Japanese import Mini Cooper. Although moderately knowledgable about engines from racing motorbikes when I was young I am fairly ignorant. Though I am learning very quickly it seems with all the little problems I have already had to fix. Now, I am fairly sure my mini needs a new or uprated alternator, as I seem to have to choose between headlights, radio or air con/heater. But not at the same time as it seems to just cut out on idle or clutching in at junctions. My question is, and is quite broad, do I use an MPi alternator like a British mini at that year or is it an SPi alternator which from internet research Japanese minis seem to be. In fact, any information on Japanese minis of this year would be greatly appreciated, as I have fuelling issues but the internet seems to have lots of contradictory information on what is different on these minis. From what I gather, its an SPi but an MPi everything else, with a Japanese specific ECU? 

 

I have a thousand questions, and every problem I fix seems to open up more questions. So I apologise now before I start the excessive noobiness.

 

Thank you, Jd. 

Hi JD, I have a 98 Jap Import. If you have a distributor it will be all SPI gear. If you have an oil filter where the distributor should be it is essentially an MPI block and MPI head with SPI throttle body and SPI manifiold which is both water cooled and electrically heated. The whole reason was when Rover bought out the MPI with front radiator the Air Conditioning units for the Jap models could not fit. Rover went back to the side radiator and SPI induction equipment for the Jap cars so the AC compressor could still be fitted. Regards Waz.

[Underdose]

Thanks Waz, that's very helpful. No distributor and oil filter where it should be. So regarding all parts & referencing I should be looking at 97 onwards MPI specs, apart from anything relating to the throttle body and inlet manifolds will be SPI. That seems easy enough. I was getting worried that all the electronics and ecu would be different. 

 

I have a modern van & car, and the mini is the only one with Aircon (and it's ice cold!), it's wonderful, though the plastic vent has broken and I'm struggling to source a replacement. Unfortunately if I have any electronics on I seem to die on idle (alternator kicking out at about 12.5), assuming the 70amp alternator on mini spares would cure this. 

 

Thanks again! 

[nicklouse]

First thing I would do is post up some images of the engine bay as there are a few different different set ups on the Jap cars.

 

and with different alternator set ups.

[Underdose]

Some old ones from last year. Hope it helps. 

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[Underdose]

This one probably doesn't help :) 

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[Squipper]

Hi

 

Have a look at these Face Book groups, you might be able to find your part and lots of great info. 

 

 

Classic Minis Japan New & Used Parts (Dave Ainley great guy and lots of spares for JDM Mini)

 

 

JDM Classic Mini Owners Club

 

 

Fluf

[Pops_Guild]

From your photos yours has the MPI coil pack and MPI alternator. Mine is also 97 but uses more of the SPI parts

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[xrocketengineer]

You are probably right that you need an alternator. However, (me being cheap) I would do a few things first. Check the battery condition, a good battery should hold lights and idle for a while with no alternator help. Next, I would check that the earth points are clean and rust free and they are located on the triangular gusset next to brake servo.

 

Then go to this thread and download all the PDF's on entry number 40 for the MPI and Japanese Mini:

 http://www.theminifo...-perhaps/page-3

 

Then go to entry number 71 on the same thread and use the link to get the SPI Manual.

 

After that you should have enough Mini information to drive yourself nuts. Enjoy!

[Underdose]

Thanks Squipper, those groups are very useful. 

 

Interesting to see your bay Pops. Would you think it was changed halfway through the year perhaps? I'll be using your picture as a comparison I'm sure. 

 

xrocketengineer, priceless links! thank you very much. All printing off now. I have a new battery and it holds well, I will check the earth points today. And perhaps run an extra one. I am getting readings of under 13.5 on the alternator. 

 

I do have a fuelling issue, as I don't think the ECU is regulating idle when electrics are loading it. Which is probably the issue on stalls, as currently I have to choose between headlights, heater, aircon or radio. More than one it cuts out coming to a stop. I have a new Lambda and o2 sensor, coil pack and leads on their way and will be cleaning all the contacts today. It has already had new plugs and other service parts (vac pipe etc). It's running very rich and the CAT was smoking on idle a couple of days ago, I hope this doesn't mean its melted. An Italian tune yesterday did improve the running. My local garages diagnostics don't seem to work on it but it being a mini I assume their can't be that many things to fault..... 

 

Thanks everyone. 

Edited by Underdose, 29 February 2020 - 03:46 PM.

[Squipper]

Hi 

 

My 99 JDM Mini Cooper has the same engine layout as yours, as far as I know the differences in UK and JDM Mini SPI is that from bout 96 or when BMW were taking over they brought out the MPI Mini with a front radiator, for the Japanese market and to fit Air Con they brought out the JDM SPI Mini, which had inline fuses, MPI Engine block, Distributor less ignition, coil pack same as MPI and 2 radiator fans ( 1 electric ).

 

Fluf

[AP2020]

From your photos yours has the MPI coil pack and MPI alternator. Mine is also 97 but uses more of the SPI parts

 

Your fan looks like its on backwards.... it should have the vanes with concave side outer most

[AP2020]

Hello, last year I purchased a 1997 Japanese import Mini Cooper. Although moderately knowledgable about engines from racing motorbikes when I was young I am fairly ignorant. Though I am learning very quickly it seems with all the little problems I have already had to fix. Now, I am fairly sure my mini needs a new or uprated alternator, as I seem to have to choose between headlights, radio or air con/heater. But not at the same time as it seems to just cut out on idle or clutching in at junctions. My question is, and is quite broad, do I use an MPi alternator like a British mini at that year or is it an SPi alternator which from internet research Japanese minis seem to be. In fact, any information on Japanese minis of this year would be greatly appreciated, as I have fuelling issues but the internet seems to have lots of contradictory information on what is different on these minis. From what I gather, its an SPi but an MPi everything else, with a Japanese specific ECU? 

 

I have a thousand questions, and every problem I fix seems to open up more questions. So I apologise now before I start the excessive noobiness.

 

Thank you, Jd. 

 

JD, have you checked the belt is tight enough but also that it sits with the belt "V's" in the pulley but not bottoming out as this will allow for more slippage and therefore reduced charge. 

 

Ps maybe a pair of these https://www.ebay.co....tm/283783726623 would add to the overall shiney look ....

Edited by AP2020, 28 February 2020 - 10:45 PM.

[hungdynasty]

Your car is the same as my 98 JDM and it is a MPI alternator

Edited by hungdynasty, 29 February 2020 - 06:30 AM.

[Underdose]

After reading lots of threads I think my stepper motor is malfunctioning. I had no audible clicks. I took off the connectors and cleaned them, and adjusted the throttle cable to a diagram I saw someone post. Now when I turn the ignition on I get a quiet high pitched whine, but not every time. The first two times turning engine off I heard the audible clicks but now on I don't get that. I also refitted the red vac tube at the same time. I now do not have a misfire, and it seems to run much better. However, under electrical load (headlights etc) the idle drops and begins to cut out again while stopping. The first time after cleaning the stepper connections the idle would change with load. I'm starting to think I have a faulty stepper motor rather than the alternator, as my battery seems to keep charge. Should I be hearing the audible clicks every time when ignition turns on and then engine off? Is there a way to confirm it's the motor rather than the ecu faulting before I buy a new one. Is it a simple remove and replace or is there a setting up process, or is it automatic? I've found a few new genuine motors on eBay for around £70. Apologies for all the questions, I seem to slowly be improving the overall running of the engine with all the new bits and cleaning. My inlet manifold was very greasy/sooty. 

 

Ps: No idea what's going on with the vac pipes underneath the filter, this can't be helping anything? See attached photo.

 

Edit: After finding a YouTube video I'm going to film it with my phone to check if it's doing anything. // Ok, I took a video and although it is very very quiet, the pin does move on key on (whine) and key off (clicks) as it should. Which leaves me with the idle drop problem under load again. 

 

Thanks for the replies, they've helped confirm things for me. AP2020, I have been looking at those tow bolts! The car came with a lot of chrome from the previous owner and I've slowly been trying to calm it down a bit and swap some parts to stainless. I'd like to swap the arches out for colour coded ones when it gets rebuilt & resprayed next winter. I do very much like the colour, and the matching leather interior and carpets <3 

 

 

 

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Edited by Underdose, 29 February 2020 - 07:40 PM.