11 replies to this topic

[Trissy B]

I brought a NOS genuine SU electronic pump a number of years ago. It served at least 15 years without issue but now needs regular fettling or just hitting with a hammer. I've never liked the idea of a pump on the subframe so thinking I might take the opportunity to mount inside the boot and go facet solid state cube type or hif44.

Does anyone have an example photo of this setup?

I regularly carry a boot full of spares to events so it can't be mounted where the spare wheel goes.

Also, does the standard tank have the outlet facing downwards?.. Is it an issue kinking the fuel line from the tank out to a pump in the boot somewhere? Thanks

[DeadSquare]

With the original tank, there was room to fit the SU subframe mounted pump under / infront of the tank, tucked out of the way, feeding the outlet through the existing hole through the boot floor.

 

The tank had to be loosened (maybe the filler pushed inside the body ?), in order to fix the stubby rubber pipe between the tank and pump.

[Cooperman]

I use twin Facet pumps under the rear seat base. Personally I have never liked the idea of an electric pump or pumps with the associated duplicate wiring sharing the boot area with a pair of petrol tanks, a big battery and assorted tools.

[DeadSquare]

I use twin Facet pumps under the rear seat base. Personally I have never liked the idea of an electric pump or pumps with the associated duplicate wiring sharing the boot area with a pair of petrol tanks, a big battery and assorted tools.

 

So you are another one who recons that if you carry a load of tools, you won't have a break down, Lol.

 

 

 

 

More seriously:-

 

As I recall, the wooden boot floor level is above the height of a pump tucked under the tank.

 

After a nasty fire at Goodwood in the 60s, the regs were tightened and firewalls made mandatory, so presumably you are not talking about a competition car.

 

If there is a chance of a mis-hap and a fire, I'd rather that it happened in the boot than under the back seat.

Edited by DeadSquare, 07 March 2020 - 10:15 PM.

[Cooperman]

I'm not suggesting that my way of doing things is the only safe way, it's just how I do it. My background was originally aircraft design and anything which reduces the possibility of a catastrophic event is encouraged.

Thus I work on the basis that fuel pumps in the boot are a potential electrical spark source in the event of any sort of incident. The pump(s) sit in the boot along with up to 11 gallons of petrol, electrical connections, a big battery with some sort of fibre cover and some rubber fuel pipes.

On my cars there is a metal covered fuel pipe from the tank to the under-seat pumps. The only electrical connections in the boot are the rear lights and the battery terminals and main supply cable which goes immediately out of the boot. The transfer pipe for inter-tank cross feed is a metal pipe with very short metal covered joint pipes at each end.

In the event of a rear-end shunt, there are few potential electrical failure points inside the boot and the likelihood of an external fire is minimised by fuses. 

Of course, my boot area is fire-proofed from the car's interior, but a big fire in the boot would not be good news for the occupants.

My external pump(s) have an undertray and a centre-exit exhaust makes this easy to fit or remove.

That is just what I do and I make no suggestion that anyone should or needs to copy it.

[DeadSquare]

I'm not suggesting that my way of doing things is the only safe way, it's just how I do it. My background was originally aircraft design and anything which reduces the possibility of a catastrophic event is encouraged.

Thus I work on the basis that fuel pumps in the boot are a potential electrical spark source in the event of any sort of incident. The pump(s) sit in the boot along with up to 11 gallons of petrol, electrical connections, a big battery with some sort of fibre cover and some rubber fuel pipes.

On my cars there is a metal covered fuel pipe from the tank to the under-seat pumps. The only electrical connections in the boot are the rear lights and the battery terminals and main supply cable which goes immediately out of the boot. The transfer pipe for inter-tank cross feed is a metal pipe with very short metal covered joint pipes at each end.

In the event of a rear-end shunt, there are few potential electrical failure points inside the boot and the likelihood of an external fire is minimised by fuses. 

Of course, my boot area is fire-proofed from the car's interior, but a big fire in the boot would not be good news for the occupants.

My external pump(s) have an undertray and a centre-exit exhaust makes this easy to fit or remove.

That is just what I do and I make no suggestion that anyone should or needs to copy it.

 

 

 

In the same way, I make no recommendation to tuck the pump under the corner of the tank; .......but the O.P. asked..........................

 

I removed the pump from the rear subframe of my Mini Pick-up and fixed it near the wiper motor, to the bulkhead.................. which turned out to be most satisfactory.

[Trissy B]

Thank you guys, great ideas as always. Potentially then:

 

1. Bring the fuel line into the car, mount a pump under the seat and let the new pipe pop up in the engine bay in a more convenient place.

 

or

 

2. Put in a wooden boot board and mount the pump below it. Keep the fuel lines under the car.

 

 

I will have a think about those options. It is not a competition car but I do use for Autotests, Autosolos and 12 car rallies, possibly with Targa Rallies in mind.

 

So safety in general is on my mind including fire proofing the bulk head (not sure whats required here) and anti-roll over shut off valve.

[Cooperman]

For any sort of rallying you must not fit a G-activated cut off switch. If you do, the first time you hit a big bump the engine will stop. I do speak from experience as I was on a rally and a Peugeot was towed into the fuel station. The driver said he had retired after the engine had just stopped. I asked him to open the bonnet. I reset the G-switch and it started straight away. I showed him how to re-wire it to by-pass the switch.

Edited by Cooperman, 10 March 2020 - 04:38 PM.

[Trissy B]

For any sort of rallying you must not fit a G-activated cut off switch. If you do, the first time you hit a big bump the engine will stop. I do speak from experience as I was on a rally and a Peugeot was towed into the fuel station. The driver said he had retired after the engine had just stopped. I asked him to open the bonnet. I reset the G-switch and it started straight away. I showed him how to re-wire it to by-pass the switch.

Thank you i will look out for this. Do you run with a standard tank? I can imagine running the pumps under the seat saves you a lot of room in the boot.

[Cooperman]

I run my Cooper 'S' with twin 5.5 gallon tanks. With the 'S' doing as little as 12 mpg when being driven flat out on stages I need that capacity.

For reliability I have a pair of FACET pumps mounted inside the rear sub-frame on the left of the centre-exit exhaust box. I pipe them in parallel and they are independently wired & fused with separate switches. I can have both on at once or just one running. That makes a pump failure of minimal importance and it will not put me out of a rally. The pumps are protected by a 4 mm thick aluminium plate as it the battery box, with the back exhaust box running down the centre with extra mountings.

I have an easy-to-reach FIA-spec electrical cut-off isolator switch mounted between the front seats which can be reached by driver or navigator. It also cuts off the ignition feed.

Both exhaust boxes have skid plates on both ends and the rear box has an extra steel skin on the underside.

[IronmanG]

Dont have a picture of the fuel pump location do you please. I am going to run injection on my pick up so need to run fuel pump filter and regulator. Thought I was going to have to run it near the tank. Other suggestions such as swirl pots and other stuff would be appreciated
I'm not suggesting that my way of doing things is the only safe way, it's just how I do it. My background was originally aircraft design and anything which reduces the possibility of a catastrophic event is encouraged.
Thus I work on the basis that fuel pumps in the boot are a potential electrical spark source in the event of any sort of incident. The pump(s) sit in the boot along with up to 11 gallons of petrol, electrical connections, a big battery with some sort of fibre cover and some rubber fuel pipes.
On my cars there is a metal covered fuel pipe from the tank to the under-seat pumps. The only electrical connections in the boot are the rear lights and the battery terminals and main supply cable which goes immediately out of the boot. The transfer pipe for inter-tank cross feed is a metal pipe with very short metal covered joint pipes at each end.
In the event of a rear-end shunt, there are few potential electrical failure points inside the boot and the likelihood of an external fire is minimised by fuses.
Of course, my boot area is fire-proofed from the car's interior, but a big fire in the boot would not be good news for the occupants.
My external pump(s) have an undertray and a centre-exit exhaust makes this easy to fit or remove.
That is just what I do and I make no suggestion that anyone should or needs to copy it.

In the same way, I make no recommendation to tuck the pump under the corner of the tank; .......but the O.P. asked..........................

I removed the pump from the rear subframe of my Mini Pick-up and fixed it near the wiper motor, to the bulkhead.................. which turned out to be most satisfactory.

[the.stroker]

This is my set up.