Sticky Ball Joint
#1
Posted 28 March 2020 - 03:26 PM
I'm replacing the ball joint on my mini (the one on the lower arm) and I'm struggling like mad to undo the drivers side one. It's currently soaking in wd40 and I though I'd pop on here and see if you guys had any advice on how to remove them.
Cheers
#3
Posted 28 March 2020 - 03:52 PM
Ahh it's where it bolts on to the hub its jammed not the lower arm mate
#4
Posted 28 March 2020 - 03:56 PM
Have you got a bench with a vice ?
#5
Posted 28 March 2020 - 04:07 PM
And a blowtorch?
#6
Posted 28 March 2020 - 04:15 PM
#7
Posted 28 March 2020 - 04:25 PM
Good luck.
#8
Posted 28 March 2020 - 04:30 PM
Remove the split pin in the end of the drive shaft, and the undo the nut.
Undo the two bolts holding the steering arm and carefully ease it off the dowels.
Clamp the brake hose and loosen it from the brake cylinder.
Carefully pull the hub off the drive shaft, and by rotating it, unscrew it from the brake hose.
Clamp the hexagon of the ball joint in the vice and pushing a proportionately sized bar through the hub. heave.
#9
Posted 28 March 2020 - 05:04 PM
Cheers for that mate il give it a go tomorrowRemove the split pin in the end of the drive shaft, and the undo the nut.
Undo the two bolts holding the steering arm and carefully ease it off the dowels.
Clamp the brake hose and loosen it from the brake cylinder.
Carefully pull the hub off the drive shaft, and by rotating it, unscrew it from the brake hose.
Clamp the hexagon of the ball joint in the vice and pushing a proportionately sized bar through the hub. heave.
#10
Posted 28 March 2020 - 05:17 PM
Cheers for that mate il give it a go tomorrowRemove the split pin in the end of the drive shaft, and the undo the nut.
Undo the two bolts holding the steering arm and carefully ease it off the dowels.
Clamp the brake hose and loosen it from the brake cylinder.
Carefully pull the hub off the drive shaft, and by rotating it, unscrew it from the brake hose.
Clamp the hexagon of the ball joint in the vice and pushing a proportionately sized bar through the hub. heave.
The ideal bar to go through the hub is threaded studding so that you can pinch the bearings. You should be OK, but just to be sure, I have used a spacer at the back and gripped the bar either side with mole grips.
#11
Posted 28 March 2020 - 07:52 PM
#12
Posted 28 March 2020 - 10:56 PM
I did use a socket on these for years, but a few years back, I went over to a spanner as I find I can get better purchase on the flats of the nut.
Mini Spares offer a flat Ring Spanner, that if made from the right material, looks really good for doing these. I have one on my next shopping list.
#13
Posted 28 March 2020 - 11:52 PM
I did use a socket on these for years, but a few years back, I went over to a spanner as I find I can get better purchase on the flats of the nut.
Mini Spares offer a flat Ring Spanner, that if made from the right material, looks really good for doing these. I have one on my next shopping list.
I have a hexagonal socket with the rounded front of the socket ground off flush to get the maximum contact area.
#14
Posted 28 March 2020 - 11:56 PM
Do you have a breakaway torque wrench?............ that you can knock the square drive through ?
If so, set it at about 120 lbs and use it on the socket. Every time it brakes away, it acts like an impact wrench.
#15
Posted 29 March 2020 - 12:22 AM
I did use a socket on these for years, but a few years back, I went over to a spanner as I find I can get better purchase on the flats of the nut.
Mini Spares offer a flat Ring Spanner, that if made from the right material, looks really good for doing these. I have one on my next shopping list.
I have a hexagonal socket with the rounded front of the socket ground off flush to get the maximum contact area.
Yeap, did the same with my 1-1/2" and 1-5/16" sockets.
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