11 replies to this topic

[Apexhunter]

I am about to re-build my 1970 Austin Mini 15 years after I got it on the road the first time, and this time I am going to knock the “boy racer” off from it. The focus is now more on performance and handling etc. and hopefully I will be more satisfied with the car. (In those 15 years the car has only driven about 1.600 miles due to me not being completely satisfied with it)

 

Over the years I have acquired a lot of parts that I thought would be the dogs dangly bits, like the red coil spring conversion set(firm race), which I now understand is a terrible, not to say dangerous option for a race mini. Furthermore I have acquired, but not run, new adjustable lower arms, KAD adjustable rear camber/toe bracket, KAD ¾” rear anti roll bar, KAD front anti roll bar.

 

And I have a Tran-X LSD, just if you think this doesn’t do anything good for the handling.

 

My current setup includes 6Jx10 ET-3 with Yokohama A032 which I want to change to a set of wheels that will fit the body without the use of wheel arches, and to optimize the scrub radius. Front brakes are the old cast KAD 4-pot vented brake disc and rear is alloy Superfin brake drums.

 

Standard rubber cones in the rear and competition cones in the front, but they obviously need replacing as they are collapsed after 15 years. The cones are fitted with a homemade Hi-Lo kit which I will replace with a new kit with an increased overall diameter for better support and draft angle for more progression.

 

For shock absorbers I have the SPAX Competition 28 stage adjustable damper. (15+ years of age but only done 1.600 miles)

 

I know this is might be a long and perhaps untidy post but hopefully some of you have great experience with suspension setup and will be able to help me out with which route to take, parts to use and what more to take into consideration.

 

Thanks.

 

As a side question I have another Mini which is just for driving on the roads. With this Mini I am thinking I would try the coil spring conversion but would you say I should fit adjustable dampers with this conversion? And in that case would you use the old SPAX dampers and buy new dampers with eg. compression/re-bound adjustment for the race mini? Or keep the SPAX and just buy some cheaper lowering dampers for the road Mini?

 

 

 

 

[cal844]

Bin the spring conversion for both cars, fit rubber cones and kyb gas adjust shockers on your road car, fully adjustable Protech shockers. Fit your adjustable bits then only add the anti roll bars IF needed.

Just my opinion
Cal

Edited by cal844, 09 April 2020 - 12:56 PM.

[cal844]

Bin the spring conversion, fit rubber cones and HiLo kits.
Then fit kyb gas adjust dampers on the road car.

Race car fit protech shockers.

Then fit any adjustable bits and add the anti roll bars if needed once they're set up.

Just my opinion

Cal

[blacktulip]

Bin the spring conversion, fit rubber cones and HiLo kits.
Then fit kyb gas adjust dampers on the road car.

Race car fit protech shockers.

Then fit any adjustable bits and add the anti roll bars if needed once they're set up.

Just my opinion

Cal

This

[nicklouse]

The only place for the coils has already been said. The bin.  
 

looks like you now understand that there is a relationship between the alloy trumpet and the rubber donut. And this is the profile of both and how they make contact with each other.

 

everything else you have seems good but you may not want to fit the ARBs.

 

why you ask. ARBs should not be relied on for hiding something. They should only be used to balance how the car behaves.  And what they do is reduce grip. So if you have maxed out the grip at the front and you still get under steer adding an ARB at the rear can help reduce rear grip to give a more neutral handling car. And visa versa  

 

shocks whatever they all work. I am currently using AVO as they will provide what I want rather than just the standard sizes for the Mini.

[Apexhunter]

Bin the spring conversion, fit rubber cones and HiLo kits.
Then fit kyb gas adjust dampers on the road car.

Race car fit protech shockers.

Then fit any adjustable bits and add the anti roll bars if needed once they're set up.

Just my opinion

Cal

Thank you for your suggestion. I haven't heard about the Protech shocks but they look very interesting and with a reasonable price.

[Apexhunter]

The only place for the coils has already been said. The bin.  
 

looks like you now understand that there is a relationship between the alloy trumpet and the rubber donut. And this is the profile of both and how they make contact with each other.

 

everything else you have seems good but you may not want to fit the ARBs.

 

why you ask. ARBs should not be relied on for hiding something. They should only be used to balance how the car behaves.  And what they do is reduce grip. So if you have maxed out the grip at the front and you still get under steer adding an ARB at the rear can help reduce rear grip to give a more neutral handling car. And visa versa  

 

shocks whatever they all work. I am currently using AVO as they will provide what I want rather than just the standard sizes for the Mini.

Ha ha! Yeah, I get the impression that the coils is not a very popular solution.

 

Hmm! Funny, I don’t know why but I always had the impression that an ARB would pull the lifting wheel down and therefore creating more traction with both of the wheels touching the ground. 

 

What is the difference between the red spot and yellow spot rubber cone?

[nicklouse]

 

The only place for the coils has already been said. The bin.  
 

looks like you now understand that there is a relationship between the alloy trumpet and the rubber donut. And this is the profile of both and how they make contact with each other.

 

everything else you have seems good but you may not want to fit the ARBs.

 

why you ask. ARBs should not be relied on for hiding something. They should only be used to balance how the car behaves.  And what they do is reduce grip. So if you have maxed out the grip at the front and you still get under steer adding an ARB at the rear can help reduce rear grip to give a more neutral handling car. And visa versa  

 

shocks whatever they all work. I am currently using AVO as they will provide what I want rather than just the standard sizes for the Mini.

Ha ha! Yeah, I get the impression that the coils is not a very popular solution.

 

Hmm! Funny, I don’t know why but I always had the impression that an ARB would pull the lifting wheel down and therefore creating more traction with both of the wheels touching the ground. 

 

What is the difference between the red spot and yellow spot rubber cone?

 

Nope the ARB does the reverse. All it does is increase the spring rate of the wheel with most grip by compressing the inner (lifting) suspension more (so lift it higher) and increases the wheel frequency (not good less grip).

[Apexhunter]

Does anyone know how big the difference is between the red spot and yellow spot rubber cones?

[nicklouse]

IIRC one is rally spec and one is race spec. One is taller and one is stiffer.

[Apexhunter]

IIRC one is rally spec and one is race spec. One is taller and one is stiffer.

Ha ha! Yes I am aware of that J   -  I was thinking more towards how big a noticeable difference in ride experience there would be between the two of them.

[nicklouse]

Irrelevant. If you are wanting a longer travel suspension rally car you use the red dot. If you want a short travel hard suspension you fit the yellow dot.

 

if you are building a fun car fit new standard rubbers with genuine HiLos this gives an increased spring rate suitable for more entertaining driving. 
 

ps if you are making your new hilos please roll the inner thread don’t cut it. Seen on or two fail with cut thread.