23 replies to this topic

[masslaw]

Sorry if this has been covered, the site is so large I may have missed it while searching.  Anyway, I'm going to do what I hope to be a straightforward replacement of all four brake lines.  The original rubber ones need to go and I've braided lines ready.  I'm hoping it is as easy as I think it will be:  undo the old, tighten up the new, don't get brake fluid on painted parts, bleed all and, viola !  Am I missing anything?

 

[MatthewsDad]

Worth spraying some plus-gas on the bleed nipples a few days in advance if they haven't been cracked open for a few years. Also worth replacing the star washers as they may have flattened over time. Check Haynes for bleeding sequence for your model.

[RustyAutoCityE]

In addition to the above I would reccomend also putting penatrating fluid on all unions that you are going to have to undo.

 

Replacing the flexi hoses on the rear of mine, I had to take a hacksaw to them as they were rusted solid, hopefully your won't be quite so bad!

[nicklouse]

Expect the unions that attach to the flexys to be well corroded into place so plan for it to be a bigger job than you plan.

[Ethel]

Are you intending to just replace the flexies?

 

As Nick says, the unions have a habit of corroding on to the solid pipes & that can lead to the pipes twisting & shearing when you try to undo them.

 

Consider replacing the solid pipes in to the rear cylinders as good economy. You could be forced to anyway, but turning the cylinder instead of the union is a pipe saving tactic to try. At the other end you could cut the old hose so you can turn the ends without winding the hose up & keep the pipe sides from turning. 

 

I'd also start by tackling all the bleed screws. If any shear you can avoid losing use of the car while waiting for replacement parts & it makes sense, but not as much mess, to take the opportunity to drain & replace all the fluid. To that end also push the caliper pistons back and/or remove the calipers so you place them so they drain fully.

[sonscar]

Be careful with the fronts as they are different(and very challenging to reach)Steve..

[masslaw]

Thanks, all.  I've bled all four recently so the nipples are working as they should.  I'll proceed with caution.

[dmandan]

I had to grind off the union bolts on the rear of mine, they also take a flared spanner which is a PITA ....

[Elwyn]

I'm just starting the same job/ Everything is seized, so far. Asa expected. I've taken the radiator out. 93 L reg SPI. The top of the near side sub frame is ex[posed. Clear and easy access, sort of, to the brake pipe as it plunges through the sub frame to the old flexi hose. It looks like one small nut sitting on a large, deep nut. 

Stupid question alert!

Should I be loosening / trying to loosen the top, small nut or the larger, deeper nut that sits directly on top of the sub frame?

Or both?

I haven't yet tried the off side where I aim to simply (ha!) undo the banjo nut for it all to come apart easily.

That's within sight through the inner wing "window"

Just

I might remove the ecu thing in the engine bay and try from above as well

Any tips?

[sonscar]

The small nut is the brake pipe fitting which screws into the flexy.the big nut secures the flexy to the subframe,so small first big second I would suggest.Expect the brake pipe to twist off.Steve..

[Elwyn]

Thanks

I now always expect the worst

Safer that way

Leads to much less disappointment

 

It's nice that the sub frame upstand is almost completely in the way of getting a spanner around either nut

Well thought out

Considerate engineers

[Revd]

I recently replaced flexi brake lines on my ‘87. The banjo bolt on the o/s/f bottomed out on the replacement line and I had to shorten the bolt by two or three threads

[Tornado99]

Once you're done swapping the lines, I highly recommend gravity bleeding. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder valve and just open the bleeder valve enough that fluid starts to drip out. Keep the reservoir topped up and just let it drip. Might take 10 or 20 minutes to get a full fluid replacement done, but use that time to prep other wheels and even start them dripping also. No need to push the brake pedal or use other equipement like vacuum or pressure systems. 

 

I've done this on my last few vehicles and it works very nicely.

[Elwyn]

Once you're done swapping the lines, I highly recommend gravity bleeding. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder valve and just open the bleeder valve enough that fluid starts to drip out. Keep the reservoir topped up and just let it drip. Might take 10 or 20 minutes to get a full fluid replacement done, but use that time to prep other wheels and even start them dripping also. No need to push the brake pedal or use other equipement like vacuum or pressure systems. 

 

I've done this on my last few vehicles and it works very nicely.

Thanks. I'll try that

[Tornado99]

 

Once you're done swapping the lines, I highly recommend gravity bleeding. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder valve and just open the bleeder valve enough that fluid starts to drip out. Keep the reservoir topped up and just let it drip. Might take 10 or 20 minutes to get a full fluid replacement done, but use that time to prep other wheels and even start them dripping also. No need to push the brake pedal or use other equipement like vacuum or pressure systems. 

 

I've done this on my last few vehicles and it works very nicely.

Thanks. I'll try that

 

Here's good video that got my to try gravity bleeds: