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Electronic Ignition And Ballasts


Best Answer ACDodd , 23 April 2020 - 06:54 AM

Ethel no, back in the day factory coils used 1.4 to 1.5ohm windings. Since then the supply has change to 0.9ohm winding on the same part number. Its the usual story of cheap parts. I now fit a viper dry coil with 1.5 ohms from power spark with no ballast on the 65d units. If you fit a 1.5 ohm coil set the plug gaps to 0.035" you will feel difference in more part throttle torque. If you by a coil by the original part number it won't be the correct resistance.


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#1 ben.mini

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Posted 22 April 2020 - 09:34 PM

Hi All, 

 

A topic that i know has been covered in some way, but has I haven't managed to find an answer to my specific question. So here goes:

 

I have a 1990 Flame Red, A previous owner has installed an MG Metro Engine into her. It has an electronic ignition system the 65DM4, the Ignition Coil has on it '09-220 Electronic Coil' written on it. The mini originally has a ballast ignition system, (the loom has a Pink and white wire with resistive written on it.) 

 

The previous owner/s have connected the ballast system to the coil and the 65DM4 to the coil. 

 

Coil Resistance reads 0.9 ohms. When running the coil has 10V to earth from positive contact.

 

My questions are?

 

Should the 65DM4 not be supplied with a 12V supply and not the 10V from the coil +ve? 

 

Is this coil correct? Should a ballast system coil be used? can a ballast system coil be used with electronic ignition?

 

Any info would be welcome. 

 

Thanks

Ben

 



#2 ACDodd

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 05:54 AM

Ok the coil you have has too low primary resistance. You need 1.5ohms. No ballast resistor is used with the 65Dm4 dizzy.

Ac

#3 Ethel

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 06:46 AM

It sounds like the correct, factory, fitted coil GCL183 or DLB198 from Lucas it should have a 1ohm primary coil. I know AC uses 1.5ohm coils.

 

 Expect it would work as it is, but it would be better without the ballast, especially if there's no bypass supply from the solenoid.



#4 ACDodd

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 06:54 AM   Best Answer

Ethel no, back in the day factory coils used 1.4 to 1.5ohm windings. Since then the supply has change to 0.9ohm winding on the same part number. Its the usual story of cheap parts. I now fit a viper dry coil with 1.5 ohms from power spark with no ballast on the 65d units. If you fit a 1.5 ohm coil set the plug gaps to 0.035" you will feel difference in more part throttle torque. If you by a coil by the original part number it won't be the correct resistance.


Ac

Edited by ACDodd, 23 April 2020 - 06:57 AM.


#5 ben.mini

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 09:36 AM

Thanks Guys! This has helped confirm my thoughts! 

 

So I will look for a new 1.5 Ohm Coil.

 

Just to check, In terms of removing the ballast, I would run a new wire from the ignition switch to the coil and 65d unit (obviously choosing the correct rating). And disconnect the ballast from both ends. This way the ballast is out of the system. 

 

It does have a bypass lead from the starter solenoid. I guess that should also be removed, but won’t really cause any issues if left either.

 

Thanks

Again



#6 ben.mini

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 10:45 AM

Ethel no, back in the day factory coils used 1.4 to 1.5ohm windings. Since then the supply has change to 0.9ohm winding on the same part number. Its the usual story of cheap parts. I now fit a viper dry coil with 1.5 ohms from power spark with no ballast on the 65d units. If you fit a 1.5 ohm coil set the plug gaps to 0.035" you will feel difference in more part throttle torque. If you by a coil by the original part number it won't be the correct resistance.


Ac

 

Would you have a link to the Coil you suggest AC?

 

I have had a look on the power spark website, but am a little confused as all of hate 1.5 coils say for use with a ballast.

 

Thanks.



#7 ACDodd

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 10:58 AM

Yes I use the 1.5 without a ballast but only on the 65d dizzy. All others must use a ballast resistor.

Ac

#8 ben.mini

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 11:34 AM

Thanks Ac!



#9 ACDodd

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 11:44 AM

The factory did this as well. The same coil was used on the ballast ignition contact breaker type.

Ac

#10 cal844

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Posted 23 April 2020 - 09:00 PM

You can just remake the connection at the fuse box end of the resistor wire, I used Piggyback spade connections at the fuse box and a butt connection where the resistor wire connection was.

#11 ben.mini

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Posted 24 April 2020 - 09:24 PM

Some feedback for you. I bought a Viper 1.5 Ohm Coil, gapped the plugs, rewired (removed the ballast), and timed her up. Starts first turn of the key, revs freely and idles well. Just need to take her for a run to the shops tomorrow. Thank you for the advice Ac.

#12 ACDodd

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Posted 24 April 2020 - 10:00 PM

Glad all is good!

Ac

#13 croc7

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Posted 26 April 2020 - 05:08 AM

So that’s a straight 12v to the ignition module?

#14 ben.mini

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Posted 28 April 2020 - 07:19 AM

So that’s a straight 12v to the ignition module?

 

Yes, New 12V feed to the Coil and feed to the ignition module from the coil +ve.



#15 croc7

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Posted 29 April 2020 - 04:35 AM

Thnx




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