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Fitting Toad Alarm - Wiring In The Immobiliser


Best Answer KevinS , 27 February 2021 - 04:16 PM

Thanks for the replies guys. All sorted with correct wires cut. Alarm / immobiliser working just fine. Go to the full post


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#1 KevinS

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 04:26 PM

Hi All,

 

I am looking to install a TOAD alarm to protect my mini from the bad folks out there. All seems ok (so far) but I'm not understanding how to wire the alarm, specifically the immobiliser. I've attached an image of the wiring diagram provided by the supplier for information but I'll not attach an image of the wiring diagram for my car from the Haynes Manual. However (assuming you have access to the Haynes manual), the correct diagram is shown on page 12A.38, Wiring Diagram 18 - 1988 on Carb Models.

 

Reading from the section in the TOAD wiring diagram that reads Ignition Switch, cut the wire from ST to Start Motor (shown by a X and the words CUT), can anyone please confirm to me which wire or wires I should cut and splice the TOAD immobiliser into. You'll need a copy of the Haynes manual. FYI, component 16 in Haynes = Ignition Switch, component 17 in Haynes = Starter Motor Solenoid and component 15 in Haynes is Starter Relay.

 

Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

Kevin

Attached Files



#2 Icey

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 04:35 PM

White/red is the colour of the wire that connects the momentary start position to the starter motor (via a relay).


Edited by Icey, 10 August 2020 - 04:35 PM.


#3 KevinS

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Posted 10 August 2020 - 04:42 PM

So you're saying cut the r/w and join each end onto the 2 x blacks originating from the Toad. If I've misundetstood, please correct me.

In addition, can I take the Ignition Source shown as #3 Orange on the Toad Wiring Diagram from the BR wire that connects Ignition Switch to Starter Motor, 16 to 17 in the Haynes? Thanks for your feedback so far ICEY.

Edited by KevinS, 10 August 2020 - 04:56 PM.


#4 gazza82

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Posted 25 November 2020 - 11:41 AM

So you're saying cut the r/w and join each end onto the 2 x blacks originating from the Toad. If I've misundetstood, please correct me.

In addition, can I take the Ignition Source shown as #3 Orange on the Toad Wiring Diagram from the BR wire that connects Ignition Switch to Starter Motor, 16 to 17 in the Haynes? Thanks for your feedback so far ICEY.

Err .. no .. cut the WHITE/RED .. WHITE/RED runs from the starter switch to the starter solenoid (which may be separate or mounted on the starter)

 

I'd take the 12v Ignition source (#3 Orange) from the WHITE circuit on the starter switch as well ... or the fuse that has the white wires. BR is likely to be permanently live ..

 

 

by the way .. I was only hunting for alarms being used by this community other that the factory fit as I want to fit something similar to my car later. As I'm planning to completely rewire it, I was interested to see how an after-market was wired so the PDF was excellent!


Edited by gazza82, 25 November 2020 - 11:43 AM.


#5 sonscar

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Posted 25 November 2020 - 12:36 PM

With a Mini(carb and points) 1meter of wire with crocodile clips and a screwdriver you could start it in seconds with or without an immobiliser.Anything to deter casual thieves has to be good.Just saying,Steve..



#6 gazza82

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Posted 25 November 2020 - 01:09 PM

I know .. but I'm planning to make it has hard as possible for the little oiks .. and although mine isn't a Mini, it is an A-series and pretty similar in the electrics and security to an early Mini .. as it came off the Production lines not long before! You can open the bonnet with the bonnet emblem!! No locks .. and unlike a Mini, all the electrics are under the bonnet. It doesn't even start off the key - you pull the starter knob on the dash .. so make the ignition circuit live and .. Brum!



Or you used to .. :shifty:
  • Main electrics like fuses and relays will be inside the cabin, behind the dash.
  • Battery and other electrics like power to fuel pump in the boot.
  • Wiring through bulkheads will be via multi-pin plug/sockets - if I want to be really careful I can unplug these to deny power to the engine bay
  • Wiring loom to run behind stuff .. like metal!
  • Bonnet release from inside car (like a modern)
  • Undertray to stop, or slow down, access from underneath but any electrics that could be used to start the car won't be accessible anyway
Long gone are the days when you could turn this car on with the corner of a metal comb and pull the starter knob .. and then hide it somewhere like behind the end screens of a cricket pitch!! As a couple of my mate's did once .. I did the same to his Beetle so we were even I guess! ;D

Edited by gazza82, 25 November 2020 - 02:27 PM.


#7 Icey

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Posted 25 November 2020 - 04:29 PM

I'm planning to make it has hard as possible for the little oiks


Bit of a tangent to the start of this thread, but most classic cars are either stolen to order or to break. They won't be driven away, I'd expect them to be trailered away or Hiabed onto a flat-bed. I'd put money into a GPS tracking service rather than fancy alarms (which just get ignored anyway).

 

But as said, any security is better than none so a few quid to give you some peace of mind isn't money wasted.



#8 cal844

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Posted 25 November 2020 - 04:54 PM

Automatrics M Track is the unit you need. YouTube them to see thier work at finding vehicles

Edited by cal844, 25 November 2020 - 04:55 PM.


#9 MikeRotherham

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 02:26 PM

What it the Toad like for power consumption?

 

How long before it drains the battery to the point of uselessness like the factory standard 3AS/5AS?



#10 limby2000

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 06:23 PM

You could use the wire that the automatics uses for the starter inhibitor , i,m sure its green and black, up by the bulkhead, just unplug and use both ends.

#11 KevinS

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Posted 27 February 2021 - 04:16 PM   Best Answer

Thanks for the replies guys. All sorted with correct wires cut. Alarm / immobiliser working just fine.




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