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Rear Drum Brakes Issue


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#1 IrishDave

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Posted 26 August 2020 - 09:09 PM

Hi all,

So I’m learning as I go rebuilding my Mini..
Front subframe is back in, callipers, pads all good!

Rear subframe is back in now and after everything the last piece of the
puzzle was the drum.. it was very difficult to push over the drum brakes themselves.
When I realised this I pulled out the adjuster screw on the back as far as possible.
I eventually did get the drum over but it’s very tight and I just wanted to check that was
Normal??
If not what can I do to slip over the drum more easily?

A note; the brake drum assembly was bought as a kit from Mini Sport so the shoes etc should be all
Set up correctly.

Thanks in advance.

#2 sonscar

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Posted 26 August 2020 - 09:16 PM

If it is all new the shoes may not be centred on the hub yet or there may be high spots on the linings.If it rotates fairly readily by hand it is probably OK.Steve..

#3 Spider

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Posted 26 August 2020 - 09:34 PM

(I've edited the title to better reflect the subject)



#4 dotmatrix

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 06:09 AM

a picture of how it looks with the drum off would be great



#5 AlasdairM

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Posted 27 August 2020 - 10:31 AM

Yes a picture would be very helpful. My drum was really tight, but it was caused by me re-assembling the mechanism incorrectly.

#6 Rusty Nut

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 08:06 AM

This seems to be a recurring problem. I’ve just had it too.

Ensure that the shoes are on the right way round.

The gap on the shoe lining in the direction of travel was always the rule of thumb but is a little ambiguous. I go by the short lining gaps (leading edge when stopping) on the shoes face forward at 12 o’clock and the big gap is the trailing edge when stopping. ie reverse force on the brake drum. But post a pic for confirmation.

The new pads are so tight in the drum that they may stick on the unworn part of the drum close to the hub which compounds the problem. You may be able to coax the shoes out so they sit in the worn part.
if you have new drums then it’s not the case. 
perhaps  a short run should also free them up and then readjust.
Ensure adjusters fully wound back and greased with proper brake grease.



#7 Benoit_Dupont

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Posted 01 September 2020 - 11:22 AM

A picture would definitely help. Did that exercise last year without too much of an issue. 

 

if you want video, there is one on Steveston Motorco youtube channel, check it out.



#8 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 01:46 PM

I too had this problem recently after fitting new wheel cylinders, Mintex linings and brake drums from Minispares.  I had previously fitted new backplates, adjusters and return springs but not long before.

 

They always seem to rub a tiny bit but these were binding more than I really liked.  After checking the brake shoes were the correct way around and the adjusters were backed off and the wheel cylinders were fully retracted for the umpteenth time I went for a drive thinking the high spots would wear down.  The friction put so much heat into the left hand drum it discoloured it.

 

I 'solved' the problem by filing the linings to taper them at each end of the shoe as this is where they were catching. 



#9 Spider

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 06:18 PM

Not sure if it's the issue here, but I've found the metal work on many replacement shoes to be incorrect. With some, you can't get enough adjustment in to them (too 'small') and others have been like this.

 

I found a set of old shoes that were correct and I keep them to compare against others. In the case of those that have been too big, I file a little off the ends of the metalwork, where they contact the Adjuster and the Wheel Cylinder. They seldom need much off, usually around about 1/4 to 1/2 a mm off each end does it.



#10 AlasdairM

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 08:44 PM

Out of interest, how many ‘clicks’ of the handbrake ratchet do people need to fully lock up the brakes?

I need 3 on a flat road, and 4 on a hill.

#11 MrBounce

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Posted 07 September 2020 - 09:27 PM

My question as per Moke Spider would be where did you get your shoes? Generic ones (cheap from a show for example) often are really poor quality. I thought I have done something wrong when putting the drums back on when rebuilding the Midas' brakes. Turns out the cheapie shoes I'd bought didn't fit properly and as a result were binding on the drums.

 

A set of shoes from Mini Spares and the drums slid on nice and easily.



#12 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 07:26 PM

My question as per Moke Spider would be where did you get your shoes? Generic ones (cheap from a show for example) often are really poor quality. I thought I have done something wrong when putting the drums back on when rebuilding the Midas' brakes. Turns out the cheapie shoes I'd bought didn't fit properly and as a result were binding on the drums.

 

A set of shoes from Mini Spares and the drums slid on nice and easily.

Drums/shoes/backplates/adjusters all from Minispares.  The shoes were Mintex.



#13 bartman

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Posted 13 September 2020 - 08:17 PM

Have you rebuilt the adjusters correctly and have them in the correct orientation.

#14 Rusty Nut

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Posted 15 September 2020 - 09:47 AM

Same problem (see above post) and after replacing front callipers, discs, and rear shoes that were almost impossible to get the worn drum over,  went for a  short run and that seems to free things up. All was well and the handbrake adjustors needed winding in about 5 full turns on each side! Then back off ¾ of a turn.

 

Now my  handbrake works better  than the front discs so now I find my car where I parked it.


Edited by Rusty Nut, 15 September 2020 - 09:49 AM.





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