19 replies to this topic

[BingoBongo]

Hello all.

All four shock absorbers are well past their best. I’d like to replace with something fairly stock and something for a smoother ride.

Have tried my best to look for a thread on this with no success.

Can anyone point me towards a thread with a step by step guide as surely this is a home mechanic diy job - unless you need specific specialised tools?

Thanks in advance.

[nicklouse]

Your Haynes manual

 

all quite simple. Undo nuts and remove shocks. Make sure the metal inserts come off. Refit making sure the penny washers are fitted.

 

rear left needs tank moving to get to the top mount.

[RedRuby]

This is a fairly straight forward job, if anything on a mini is straight forward, and certainly well within the capabilities of most people.

 

The fronts are very easy. Jack up the car at the front and place axle stands underneath. Remove the road wheel. To remove the shock absorbers undo the nut on the top mount. The bottom fixing through the top arm is a nut and bolt so two spanner’s/sockets will be needed. Take note of any washer. Withdraw the bottom bolt and than slide the shock absorber off the pin in the top mount. Fitting new is  an exact reversal of the dismantling procedure. You may after fitting the new shock absorber on the top mount need to either compress or extend the shock absorber to line it up with the hole in the top arm to fit the bolt.

 

the rears are only slightly more complicated because you have to move the fuel tank to do so remove the fuel cap, undo the bolt holding the tank strap. You should then be able to ease the tank to the centre of the boot giving you sufficient room to access the top of the shock absorber. When I do this I always replace the fuel cap back on the tank for safety and to ensure no spillage depending how full the tank is.

 

the shock absorber has a threaded portion with a flat machined into it you will need to hold this with a small spanner or a set of grips ensuring you do not damage the thread then with a second spanner undo the nut, take note of how the washers and rubbers are arrange for when you put the new shock absorbers in. With the top nut removed and the rubbers and washers you can lower down the radius arm which gives you better access to the nut securing the bottom of the Shock absorber then slide it off the pin. Again before I remove the top nut I place a jack under the drum to take the strain off the shock absorber and the weight of the radius arm. It also helps on reassembly. By fitting the new shock absorber on the bottom pin first you can then extend it to align it with the mounting hole and jack back up to push the threaded portion up through the hole so you can reattach the nut, remembering of course to place the washers and rubbers back on in the correct order. Then replace the fuel tank. The offside is identical with the exception that you do not need to remove the fuel tank unless off course you have two fuel tanks fitted. The only other thing I didn’t mention is to jack up the rear of the car, place axle stands under and remove the road wheels. Doing all four should only be an hour or so job. It may also be worth giving each nut and bolt a squirt with a release fluid like plus gas a day before you do the job.

 

good luck.

Edited by RedRuby, 31 August 2020 - 09:21 PM.

[BingoBongo]

Thanks for the replies already. They are most helpful And I am truly grateful.

Any recommendations of which shocks to buy for a stock / smooth(er) ride?

[Quinlan minor]

I have these on mine and am very happy with them.

https://www.minispar...19.aspx|Back to

 

Edited by Quinlan minor, 30 August 2020 - 08:25 PM.

[Norfolk Boy]

I have Kayaba gas a just also, highly recommend

Edited by Norfolk Boy, 30 August 2020 - 08:39 PM.

[Midas Mk1]

As said, Haynes manual. You shouldnt be a Mini owner without one, they are pence on ebay.

[cal844]

Another vote for the KYB kit linked above!

Id also invest in a Haynes repair manual or a dealer Workshop Manual

[BingoBongo]

Thanks again for the replies and pointers. It didn’t even occur to me to check the Haynes Manua d’oh!

Them KYB’s appear to be very reasonable and from the description sound like what I’m looking for.

Are there any advisable “while you’re doing it” tasks that are worth doing while I’ve got them off? (Not that I want to turn into a project!) thanks again.

[BingoBongo]

Found this video too... goes hand in hand with RedRuby’s perfectly written detailed and helpful reply above.

https://youtu.be/k4BGUwhpQXo

[BingoBongo]

Will replace rear rubber cones and knuckles at the same time seeing as the area will be open and accessible. Would love to do the front cones but you need a special tool which I don’t have so that will have to wait.

Stock seems to be very low every where of stock Specification shock absorbers. All the suppliers are saying it is due to the factories being forced to close during Covid and the knock on effect of that.

[Tornado99]

There are loads of YouTube videos detailing both rear and front shock and cone replacements.

I just recieved a set of four KYB gas adjust shocks from MiniSpares. Also got their upgraded knuckle bearings and will be renewing them on the rears this week. Front cones to be done later.

[blacktulip]

Replacing the tired rubber donuts will make a massive difference on comfort. I also agree with the above for the kayaba gas adjust. I found these the best dampers I've ever fitted to my minis for road cars.

[Cooperman]

I always cut a rectangular hole in the rear seat backpanel to gain access to the LH rear damper without removing the fuel tank. I fit a cover plate using RivNuts to cover the hole. It saves ages if/when the damper needs changing and is invisible once the rear seats are fitted.

[whistler]

I always cut a rectangular hole in the rear seat backpanel to gain access to the LH rear damper without removing the fuel tank. I fit a cover plate using RivNuts to cover the hole. It saves ages if/when the damper needs changing and is invisible once the rear seats are fitted.

I do this as well. In fact it was Cooperman who sent me the template for the hole as I had forgotten exactly where to cut.