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Heater Push Or Pull?


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#1 proccy13

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 10:02 AM

Hi all,
 
This should be a simple one. I’ve just made a new dash switch panel and found an old mk1 heater cable on eBay. The cable and sheath are far longer than the mk4 cable so it’ll need to be carefully shortened but I was wondering if the valve is open and heater ‘on’ when the heater knob is pushed in or pulled out? It has marking on the knob for ‘push heater’, does that mean to open the heater valve you have to push the cable away from you towards the engine? So the heater cable, when valve closed, is always pulled out of the dash when the heater is not being used? Surely not!
 
Many thanks!

 

 

 



#2 proccy13

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 10:03 AM

Hi all,
 
This should be a simple one. I’ve just made a new dash switch panel and found an old mk1 heater cable on eBay. The cable and sheath are far longer than the mk4 cable so it’ll need to be carefully shortened but I was wondering if the valve is open and heater ‘on’ when the heater knob is pushed in or pulled out? It has marking on the knob for ‘push heater’, does that mean to open the heater valve you have to push the cable away from you towards the engine? So the heater cable, when valve closed, is always pulled out of the dash when the heater is not being used? Surely not!
 
Many thanks!

 

 

 

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#3 nicklouse

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 10:08 AM

Confused


Edited by nicklouse, 09 September 2020 - 10:09 AM.


#4 Chris1275gt

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 10:10 AM

When the knob is pulled out the heater valve is closed hence push on the knob to open it. I've never been able to understand why they couldn't of put it the other way round and have spent some time trying to think how this could be achieved but to no avail. Perhaps someone could enlighten me if it's possible to do.

#5 Ethel

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 10:55 AM

If you really wanted to do that you could just swap to the later remote valve.

 

Or you could convert the valve from a class 2 to a class 1 lever.



#6 nicklouse

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 10:59 AM

Mine was always pull for heat.

 

also there seemed to be different heater taps for different applications. 
 

push for heat in colder areas so the knob was main in. And pull for heat in the hotter areas where the knob was also mainly in.



#7 MikeRotherham

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 11:01 AM

I love how this question comes up regularly. :shifty:

 

I think it is push for heat on valves that are attached to the head and pull for heat on the later floating valves.


Edited by MikeRotherham, 09 September 2020 - 11:03 AM.


#8 nicklouse

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 11:10 AM

I love how this question comes up regularly. :shifty:

 

I think it is push for heat on valves that are attached to the head and pull for heat on the later floating valves.

Nope. You had both on the early ones.



#9 Chris1275gt

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 11:16 AM

If you really wanted to do that you could just swap to the later remote valve.
 
Or you could convert the valve from a class 2 to a class 1 lever.


Ethel how do I convert it to a class 1?

#10 mab01uk

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 01:53 PM

On early basic Minis and the Van/Pickup commercials if you had the optional heater, you just got out the car, opened the bonnet and moved the lever on the brass tap on the cylinder head..... :lol:

 

fZTuZzW.jpg

 

There is also this earlier one below which may work the opposite way to later valves?

 

dJl8BLT.jpg


Edited by mab01uk, 09 September 2020 - 02:03 PM.


#11 imack

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 03:08 PM

Pushed in for heat on my 72

#12 Ethel

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 03:09 PM

That 13h548 looks like it would be pull for off.

 

A class 1 lever is a seesaw, with the pivot in the middle, so pulling one side makes the the other side move in the opposite direction. Your heater valve has the pivot at the bottom, the valve plunger is just pushed through the middle and the cable attaches further from the pivot giving some mechanical advantage (class 2 lever, classic example is a wheel barrow), but more cable pull.



#13 Ethel

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 03:17 PM

Pushed in for heat on my 72

 

I reckon it's the better way, the heater has on, screen and off positions so you only really need temperature control when you've driven far enough to get too warm.



#14 Tornado99

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 05:50 PM

Can you not just run the engine, move the valve lever and determine which way gives heat? Then make up your cable to achieve that.



#15 MikeRotherham

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Posted 09 September 2020 - 06:16 PM

 

I love how this question comes up regularly. :shifty:

 

I think it is push for heat on valves that are attached to the head and pull for heat on the later floating valves.

Nope. You had both on the early ones.

 

Then I stand corrected.

 

On my 1968 MK 2 850 it was push for heat and on my 94 Mayfair it is pull.






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