80 replies to this topic

[dyshipfakta]

Looks brill pal. Turbo looks ideal been looking for a decent one myself with no success. Why no intercooler just for ease of pipework? I found an intercooler from a smart roadster with the correct sized inlets and outlets and it’s tiny with a fan assist if required. I suppose the metro never had one and if you are being conservative with boost then no problem. Will be a lovely motor with 7 psi I would imagine.

[Project_1275_GT]

Even I question my own decision about no intercooler.. I set my self the challenge at the beginning of the build to try and only use Austin / Rover parts. The engine intended for the car is the 1310 already completed. Very standard build. So I planned to copy the ERA engine bay setup, this has no intercooler. Im not looking for stupid performance from it, so no intercooler should be needed. I have decided to install water cooling to help prevent detonation, this may allow some extra boost but its more for protection than performance. I want my engine bay to look as standard as possible. If i have any issues its always easy to fit later.

[dyshipfakta]

Yeah I understand pipe work and intercooler can make engine bay look very busy and cramped. Otherwise metro setup looks essentially standard.

[Project_1275_GT]

Distributor 

 

I have finally made a decision on distributor and setup. I want to keep originality of the engine bay and use a distributor. I have a Turbo 59DM4 + all parts needed, also have a Turbo 65DM4 + all parts needed, also have a 65DM4 non turbo from a Maestro 1.3 HLE. The biggest problem is none are correct for either engine I'm building. I've been trying to work out how this all works so I could achieve the correct advance curves for each engine. This is where the problems start, none of the distributors would have the correct curve. Recurving involves dyno then setup, then dyno to be sure its all correct. As I have 2 engines this will prove very time consuming and costly. I know most people have opted for Mega jolt or similar but this would not look genuine. After many hours of searching I have decided to use the Aldon Amethyst system. This is Turbo compatible and should work with my existing distributor [Non turbo 65DM4]. This system is discreet and has much better control than standard dizzy. I will also be able to use it with either engine by loading a different curve. This seems the best option for me, better control but still genuine components. 

 

65DM4 now boxed to be sent to Aldon to ensure it can work with the unit

 

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This is the 65DM4 Non Turbo [not bad for 99p from eBay]

 

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[Project_1275_GT]

Timing Chain Cover 

 

This is the original cover removed from my 1310 engine after it was supposedly rebuilt. I got a new one as this was in very poor condition. On closer inspection I found no baffell material in the breather canister.. Did some researching on baffle material, some people saying use wire wool. Really not happy with that idea. Wire wool has small particles that always break off. I am going to use stainless steel pot cleaning / scrubbing pads. These are much heavier material but should do the job. I have cut off the dented and damaged section so i can fill the canister properly and will weld a flat on like the later covers use. Hopefully it all works out ok 

 

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[Project_1275_GT]

Engine Update 

 

The extra machining work is now done and engine ready for collection tomorrow. 

 

Block pocketed 

Head modified for dry deck and light skim

Flywheel lightened 

 

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Nice clean skimmed surface and machined for dry deck fitting. Need to check CC again now and get final chamber size correct. Only had about 3 thou machined off so hopefully not too much difference.

 

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Block pocketed. Need to assemble again and check valve clearance, then install a piston to check CC increase for pocket and ring land.

 

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Original flywheel has been slightly lightened. 

 

Already got the heater assembly and loads of brackets and bits that need to be refurbed all over the bench. I will complete these first and then get back on the engine build. 

 

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Edited by Project_1275_GT, 28 February 2021 - 01:24 PM.

[Project_1275_GT]

Block pocketing check

 

Always like to check alignment of parts before final build. good job I did. Three of the four exhaust valves move into the machined pocket in the block. valve 1 does not. That could have been a nasty bent valve if I hadn't checked

 

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[Magneto]

How do you pocket the top of the deck, and how deep? Is it done on a mill or freehand?

[Project_1275_GT]

How do you pocket the top of the deck, and how deep? Is it done on a mill or freehand?

 

I have seen videos of people grinding by hand but I took mine to be machined. The machine shop used and old head with sharp faced valves to scribe the top of the block. The depth was calculated by valve opening, I assembled the engine to check the travel distance + clearance required. I only required 2mm depth, machine shop normally do 3mm depth. The deeper the pocket the closer to piston ring. I have attached a drawing I found when researching pocketing. I did not use this, but it looks correct apart from 5mm depth seems a lot.. 

 

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[Magneto]

Thanks, that's the first comprehensive explanation I've seen on this - I knew how do do it in general terms, but not the specifics....

[dyshipfakta]

The other thing is bigger the pocket lower your compression ratio goes. Not a bad thing with boost though

[Project_1275_GT]

Thanks, that's the first comprehensive explanation I've seen on this - I knew how do do it in general terms, but not the specifics....

 

Glad you found it useful, I did a huge amount of searching for info on this before getting it done. I can not guarantee the attached PDF is correct. Looks very similar to the cut-outs done on my block. I personally like the way the machine shop said they do it. Use the head with old valves with sharp edge to scribe the block. I did assemble again after the machine work to check the valves moved into the recess without issues. But 1 valve does not.. So the block will be going back this week for re machining. This did also let me check that my valve clearance was good as calculated. No springs, lightly bolt head on, Vernier calliper depth gauge on valve stem. 

[Project_1275_GT]

The other thing is bigger the pocket lower your compression ratio goes. Not a bad thing with boost though

 

I may get a little extra cut out from my block to further reduce the compression ratio. Don't really want to grind the head any more now.. Just a little wider on the pockets. They also look to be almost the size of the valve. I personally feel the flow may be better if they were a little wider. 

[Project_1275_GT]

Almost built 

 

Block pockets re done and ok now, assembled most of the parts today. Rockers on but coming off again for new shaft and some spacing out to align better to valve tip. CR checked and at target 9.4 

 

Decided on a change of colour for the engine 

 

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Dry deck fittings all connected. 

 

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[johnR]

Great colour - looks more powerful already!