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Cleaning Scuttle Panel Joint


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#1 supersimono

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Posted 04 November 2020 - 01:43 PM

Hi All,

 

I just want to get some advice for the scutle panel joint. I (like many posts I've seen) have a gap in the scuttle panel joint (see atatched image)

 

I've only noticed it as a problem since driving it in the rain the last few weeks and I would get small amounts of water coming through the dash face vent. I has the car restored a few years ago with new panels so I'm keen not to have t go through that again.

 

I plan to seal it with sikaflex 512 UV (black) but is there any preperation I should do to clean the joint to prevent (if it isn't already happening) the innevitable rust...

 

Cheers

 

 



#2 beardylondon

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Posted 04 November 2020 - 02:51 PM

no attached image



#3 sonikk4

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Posted 04 November 2020 - 04:00 PM

As mentioned no picture attached. Please use Imgur to post pictures on the forum.

 

1:- (Is the gap you are on about the wing to scuttle?? if so see below.)

 

With regards to cleaning the gap, the only thing you can do without damaging the paint is use a panel wipe to degrease the surface.

 

Also i would use a fine line tape as well to minimise any lines.

 

As to getting water through the vents that leads me to think the seal behind the mounting ring is damaged or missing. Either that or the resto was not as good as it should have been.

 

2:- Now if we are on about the joint between the top of the scuttle flange to the bulkhead then that is a different story altogether.  



#4 GraemeC

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Posted 04 November 2020 - 04:53 PM

in line with sonikk4's thoughts - the wing to scuttle join not being sealed isn't the cause of water coming through the vents - that joint wasn't traditionally sealed by the factory.

 

If water is coming through the hole in the panel for the vent then it could be the seal as mentioned (or lack of it when restored) - cant remember if it was rubber or closed cell foam

If it actually coming through the vent itself then it must be either blowing in up the pipework or creeping in where the pipes are push fit onto one of the fittings



#5 cal844

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Posted 04 November 2020 - 04:57 PM

The car should Have a rubber seal on the outside of the flitch and a foam on the inside Iirc.... I've actually welded these holes up and done away with the cold air intake. I just open a window

#6 supersimono

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Posted 05 November 2020 - 08:51 AM

Sorry guys, forgot to upload..

 

I don't actually have the air hoses attached as the heater blower doesn't work properly (another job to fix) so I can feel where the water is coming from and it feels like this joint.

 

Attached Files



#7 GraemeC

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Posted 05 November 2020 - 09:02 AM

The face vents don't connect to the heater.

You don't have which air hoses attached?  If its the external ones (ie the ones under the wing) then water will get thrown into the vent from the wheel.

 

That panel join not being sealed will not be the cause of a leak through the vent - the direction water would track from that joint will not be in the direction of the vent.

Your underlying problem is elsewhere.



#8 sonikk4

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Posted 05 November 2020 - 09:09 AM

As Graeme has said that won’t be your problem.

I think there maybe some confusion going on here. The water ingress are you on about the eyeball vents either side?? If you are then these are bolted to the upper part of the flitch panel and you will see these in the wheel well. And as mentioned if there are no hoses connected then you will get a lot of water in.

#9 sonikk4

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Posted 05 November 2020 - 06:50 PM

This is where your water will be leaking in. Now bear in mind this ring is not standard and there should be 4 welded nuts. Then the pipework will be connected to the vent.

 

df980ce5a081b84e0b461c4f209ef6c934b9d90b



#10 MikeRotherham

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Posted 06 November 2020 - 08:23 AM

This is where your water will be leaking in. Now bear in mind this ring is not standard and there should be 4 welded nuts. Then the pipework will be connected to the vent.

 

df980ce5a081b84e0b461c4f209ef6c934b9d90b

Great mod Sonnik, I always thought the standard offering was lacking and prone to bad corrosion.



#11 supersimono

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Posted 03 October 2021 - 02:33 PM

Sorry to dig up an old post, I finally got found to looking at this in more detail while doing my shock absorbers. And advice on how to repair this properly? Just cut out and weld in new metal?

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Edited by supersimono, 03 October 2021 - 02:35 PM.


#12 sonikk4

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Posted 03 October 2021 - 02:38 PM

Sorry to dig up an old post, I finally got found to looking at this in more detail while doing my shock absorbers. And advice on how to repair this properly? Just cut out and weld in new metal?


Yup providing it’s not too bad then have a look at Project Paddy in my signature at the beginning and you will see exactly what I did there for the same issue.




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