7 replies to this topic

[traineecollins]

Hi,

My MG Metro has been having some very rough cold starts this year, to the point where it sounds like it’s running on 1 or 2 cylinders and if I can keep it alive with full choke and throttle eventually you can hear all the cylinders come on and once warm it runs lovely.

I whipped the plugs out and found cylinder 2 and 3 had wet tips and assumed this was coolant.

Penny now dropping...

I had been getting random coolant leaks last few months, mainly after the car was parked and cooling down, a jubilee clip here, another there, then the heater matrix seals and so forth.

Now, about 5k miles ago I, following many forum posts, youtube videos, Rover workshop manual and carried out the headgasket change as the original had blown across 2/3.

I’m now thinking that the cooling system is being pressurised by exhaust gases and coolant entering 2 and 3.

Now, as an A series novice, I used the Payen BK450 gasket as recommended and wondering if it is really likely to have failed, or did I really do something wrong?

I know it is/ was a good strong engine until this issue as a totally stock MG engine was making more than factory power, admittedly with refurbed carb, Manflow exhaust and Shell Vpower, but still.

I got a Norton oil stone with lube and made sure the block and head mating surfaces were perfectly flat with no pieces of old gasket and I’m just a bit puzzled

Cheers

Edited by traineecollins, 12 November 2020 - 08:54 PM.

[Maccmike8]

The wetness on the plugs is definitely coolant and not fuel? Have you tasted it?

[traineecollins]

Definately coolant, smelt like anti freeze and had that slippery anti freeze feel

[cal844]

When you fitted the head Gasket did you check the head and block were perfectly level?

I usually run the engine on just water for the first heat cycle. Retorque head nuts after first heat cycle (once totally cold).

To Retorque you need to loosen the studs by 1/4 or 1/2 turn, then torque to recommended reading. I also double check the torque just by clicking the torque wrench on the studs(so don't loosen them) after the second full heat cycle.

Haven't had an issue yet

[blacktulip]

Hi just a few questions....

Did the engine ever overheat?
Did you torque the head in sequence to 50ft/lbs and not 50nm?
Did you retorque to 50ft/lbs in sequence after a full cycle?

Edited by blacktulip, 13 November 2020 - 09:41 PM.

[traineecollins]

Hi,

The engine did get hot once when I was queuing due to a stuck fan but not had any direct complications since. That was last year.

Yes I did retorque. I went as per the Rover workshop manual.

[Maccmike8]

I think youll have to split it open, at MINImum go and get the head skimmed and then fit a composite head gasket.

And give the head a real good check for cracks.

Edited by Maccmike8, 13 November 2020 - 06:34 PM.

[traineecollins]

Hi all,

Thanks for the advice.

Turns out there was a dip in the block and head caused by excessive blow by between 2-3. I presume this dates back to well before my ownership, to when my Dad attributed the rough running to high CR and lumpy cam.

Full recommendation to BD Engineering, Newington