Any Tips For Accessing Hard To Reach Flywheel Cover Bolts?
#16
Posted 25 November 2020 - 07:35 AM
#17
Posted 25 November 2020 - 07:42 AM
I would undo completely the top engine steady and also any lower engine steadies. You may also want to loosen the bolts on the lower right hand engine mount.Happy days! The tool I found best for the job for future reference is a machine mart 7/16" combination spanner angled to 15°. Using a large cold chisel to wedge the spanner onto the bolt to get full purchase and prevent rounding. I will attempt to jack the engine and remove the wok today. Although not mentioned in any Haynes manual etc...is it advisable to slacken any other engine mounts before jacking the engine? Cheers, Luke
#18
Posted 25 November 2020 - 08:17 AM
are these the bottom " front" ones?
on my car i have holesawed a couple of holes just big enough to get a socket on them.
Apologies, there are still two bolts that are still sat in the wok cover, however they ar loosened all the way out. I've loosened them as far as I can physically go, but I can't physically remove them out the hole they are In, because the subframe or general body is in the way. I'm hoping that they're just held in the cover at the minute, and the whole threaded part of the bolt has exited the threaded part of the block. When I remove the remaining part of the engine mount tomorrow, I'm hoping the wok just lifts out with the bolts just sitting in the holes they are in.
#19
Posted 25 November 2020 - 12:41 PM
When jacking try to avoid the fan poking into the radiator.Steve..
#20
Posted 25 November 2020 - 01:34 PM
When jacking try to avoid the fan poking into the radiator.Steve..
Why would it? The radiator is fastened to the engine and would move too.
#21
Posted 25 November 2020 - 06:18 PM
Because he might be tempted to remove the top radiator mount,I have seen it happen;just a little more ....just a little more oh dear.Steve..
#22
Posted 25 November 2020 - 07:43 PM
Or the the top of the Rad, pushed into the inner wing, and ....water leak city.. doesnt need much of a hole, just a tiny fracture will do... hence I always take the Rad out.... and use it as a good excuse to flush it and the block at the same time, and check the bypass hose if fitted and the bottom hose too..sure it takes more time, but I do it as a hobby not as time saving exercise, so slowly slowly do it right and do it once..."Never enough money to do it right, but always enough money to do it twice.."
#23
Posted 26 November 2020 - 11:33 AM
#24
Posted 26 November 2020 - 02:22 PM
#25
Posted 27 November 2020 - 10:13 AM
#26
Posted 27 November 2020 - 11:42 AM
Now might be a good time to buy a flexy pipe kit for the master cylinder so you can move it next time also think about some penetrating fluid for all the bleed nipples starting yesterday.Good luck.Steve..
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