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Automatic Problems - Again!


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#1 pusb

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 01:01 PM

I had put my Mini away for winter at the end of September (didn't seem much point in retaxing it as there is nowhere to go at the moment!), however I needed to do some work doing on my garage roof which was being done yesterday. The Mini would have to be moved so on Tuesday I thought I best check the battery, and sure enough it was flat. So I put it on charge, and a few hours later I was able to start it up. Fired up straight away, however I noticed that the oil light stayed on for quite a while (about 7 seconds). I just put that down to the fact it hadn't been run for a while.

I left it to idle for about 30 mins to get some charge in the battery. When I shut it off I noticed that after switching the engine off, but leaving the ignition on, the oil light took about 20 seconds to come back on. I know the engine retains some oil pressure for a few seconds after running but 20 seconds seems a long time to me. 

 

Anyway yesterday I then went to move it, oil light did the same thing, but also I noticed it took an awful lot of revs to get it moving. It was like trying to pull away in 4th in a manual. It seemed to be doing this in both drive and reverse. After moving the lever a few times between D, R and P it seemed to then feel like normal again.

 

Work was then finished on the garage this morning, so I went to put the Mini back in there. Drove forward to my garage, and it wasn't as bad as yesterday at first but it certainly didn't feel right. Was at about 2k rpm to just creep along at 10mph. Got to my garage and went to reverse in and the car was just creeping back even though I was revving to about 4k rpm, and once it reached an incline it wouldn't move at all. Tried to go forward and it wouldn't move, it was completely stuck.

 

I then thought perhaps there is an oil pressure problem (because of what I said previously about the oil light) and put it in P and just held the revs at 4k rpm for about 20 secs to try and build up some pressure. I then put it into D and there was a huge clunk and I had drive back. I then put it in R and reverse was back. So I was at least able to get it in the garage.

 

I'm just wondering now if there is a genuine oil pressure problem or is it just that its been sat for a few months and needs a good run? It was very cold last night, perhaps cold oil doesn't help? 

 

Its a 1998 Jap spec Mini.



#2 Gilles1000

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 02:49 PM

Hi, myybe the oil is too cold and too thick?

Did it run better when slightly warm?



#3 mab01uk

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 03:08 PM

As you probably already know correct grade of oil and regular oil and filter changes are key on an automatic Mini.

Cold oil certainly does not help as it is a lot less fluid (Viscosity) and engines left standing for some time can take a while to build up oil pressure as it has all drained back to the sump, (worth starting and running up to temperature once a month, although to get a gearbox fully up to temperature requires a drive).....certainly on manual gearbox Minis this can sometimes mean priming the oil pump is necessary after a long period of not running, as shown in link below. I'm no expert on autos but if no ideas on here maybe try the Automatic Mini Register forum which is currently being revived:-

https://autominiregi....proboards.com/

 

Regaining Oil Pressure After Long-Term "Mini" Storage:-

https://www.7ent.com...ni-storage.html


Edited by mab01uk, 26 November 2020 - 03:15 PM.


#4 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 03:37 PM

How old is the oil, I would change it as a matter of course then see if the situation improves.. and as stated above use the "correct" oil, modern fully synthetics are no good for a mini



#5 pusb

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 04:08 PM

Thanks all

 

The oil is 10w40 and was last changed in June, and I've probably only done about 100 miles since then



#6 gazza82

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 04:44 PM

How old is the fuel .. the ethanol goes off .. gums up the carb, etc.

 



#7 Spider

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 05:28 PM

It could be the Oil having gotten gummy from sitting around, it may just need a good run to gt it properly warmed up and to evaporate some of the by-products in it, or it could also a worn oil pump.



#8 pusb

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Posted 26 November 2020 - 05:41 PM

It could be the Oil having gotten gummy from sitting around, it may just need a good run to gt it properly warmed up and to evaporate some of the by-products in it, or it could also a worn oil pump.

 

Engine only has 57k on it so you would hope its not the oil pump! 



#9 mab01uk

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 10:31 AM

Some more on oil for Mini autos in links below which may be of interest:-

https://autominiregi...auto-engine-oil

 

The selection of motor oil for classic Minis:-

https://www.widman.b...ic-mini-oil.pdf

 

"Automatic Transmission - The AP automatic transmission used in the Mini is very sensitive to viscosity since the grooves on the discs are very shallow. The oil must displace quickly. And it should have additives to make the discs grab each other instead of slipping or chattering. If today’s gasoline oils, meeting API SN or the latest ACEA specs are used in this transmission, the discs will slip and wear out rapidly, just like slipping the clutch of a manual transmission car. While diesel formulations do not have those slippery friction modifiers, and are therefore better, the Motorcycle MA2 oils have a special friction modifier that make them grab between 35% and 100% better than diesel formulations (depending on the brands). MA2 oils will give noticeably better shifting and less particles in the oil and filter when you change it."


Edited by mab01uk, 27 November 2020 - 10:42 AM.


#10 madaboutcherry

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 12:02 PM

have you got the right amount of oil in it because the way you check the oil level is different to a manual. you run the engine for a few minutes, then turn it off. wait for 60 seconds, wipe your dipstick (ooh er matron!) and check it.



#11 pusb

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 02:29 PM

have you got the right amount of oil in it because the way you check the oil level is different to a manual. you run the engine for a few minutes, then turn it off. wait for 60 seconds, wipe your dipstick (ooh er matron!) and check it.

 

Yep, looks spot on with that



#12 limby2000

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 06:17 PM

Hi Buddy, i would agree with a lot of the theories on here, i have an auto too and had a lot of problem with the pressure relief valve, they get a bit of crap in them and cause issues, presfure at start up and also oil light flickering on when warm but only in drive or reverse. I doubt its your oil pump as they rarely wear out on autos. You should check out the automatic mini register.

#13 pusb

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 06:21 PM

Hi Buddy, i would agree with a lot of the theories on here, i have an auto too and had a lot of problem with the pressure relief valve, they get a bit of crap in them and cause issues, presfure at start up and also oil light flickering on when warm but only in drive or reverse. I doubt its your oil pump as they rarely wear out on autos. You should check out the automatic mini register.

 

The pressure relief valve is that big bolt on the left of the engine isn't it? Do you think it would be worth me changing it?

 

It just seems strange how there wasn't any issues with it before I put it away. It used flare going from 3rd to 4th and sometimes slip on the kickdown but from what I read most of them do that 



#14 JCmini

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 08:50 PM

Sounds weird but check your electrics. Make sure your getting around 14.4v at around 2k. My auto used to flare but new alternator and battery seemed to cure it. Also fitted volt meter. That how I knew I was not getting decent charge.
And take out earth cable and give them a clean

#15 limby2000

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Posted 27 November 2020 - 11:37 PM

Flaring is usually associated with pressure problems, the 3rd to 4th being the most common, there is a big list of things it can be.




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