6 replies to this topic

[mdmenon]

I have a 1991 JDM Mini. I am reconditioning the front suspension with all new bits. I am refitting the parts with new hardware and hit this snag/ doubt.

1. Installed the upper suspension arm with new needle bearing, new pivot arm.

2. Installed the thin washer in the rear and thick spacer in the front facing side of the arm.

3. Loose fit the spring washer and nut on the pivot arm to the rear.

4. Tightened and torqued the front pivot arm nut to 45-60 ib ft as recommended.

5.Tightened the rear pivot arm nut a good bit with regular wrench(since I cant get the torque wrench in the apace here)

6. I have not yet dropped the knuckles at this point, so the arm should move freely.

7. Now I test the arm and it is jammed tight.

8. If I go and loosen the rear pivot arm nut two threads now, the arm frees up and seems about right.

My question. What is the correct spec for the rear pivot arm nut and how should the upper arm work on completion.

 

[nicklouse]

7: have you tightened the front nut yet?

[mdmenon]

Yes as indicated in step 4. Tightened and torqued the front pivot arm nut to 45-60 ib ft as recommended.

 

[GraemeC]

Have you painted the arm? If so, are the faces the thrust washer sit against clear of any paint?

 

The length of the pin between the shoulders should be fractionally larger than the width of the arm. So when everything is tight the thrust washers are just clear of the arm, allowing the movement. Anything making the arm longer, or the thrust washers thicker (on their inside face), will cause the arm to bind. As will a pin that is made slight under length.

[mdmenon]

No. Made sure I did not paint the faces. However looks like keeping the rear nut short of full tight is not a good practice. Any recommendation of how much the rear nut should be tightened? Asking since I cant get the torque wrench there.

 

The pivot arm set is a kit from Mini Sports and like may part from there I guess the quality is not up to snuff.

[Spider]

The Rear Nut does need to be as tight as the front one. Granted, you can't get a Torque Wrench in there, though, if you really wanted to, you could with a Crow's Foot. I can't say I've ever worries, I have only ever done them up tight as would be appropriate for a 1/2" UNF Bolt.

 

You may have to take the Arm out and Trial Fit the Pin with it's thrust washers etc on the Bench so possibly help see where the issue lay.

 

Is the Front Thrust Washer fully home through the Subframe ?

[mdmenon]

Yes the font washer sits flush in the subframe cavity. The chamfer on the rear one can be seen as it mates to the subframe just past the PVC dust-cover.