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Cooper S Hardy Spicers - Nuts!


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#1 floormanager

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:01 PM

Took my S engine out today, all was going well until I had to undo the Hardy Spicer joints (not the QH rubber type).  7 out of the 8 nuts come undone with no problem, the 8th, rounded off Grrrrrr.  I managed to get the engine out by removing the passenger side hub, pulling out the driveshaft and lifting and pushing the engine for the hardy spicer to clear the subframe.  You cannot get a ring spanner on the nuts as there is insufficient clearance.  Does anyone have a trick or tool that I need so I do not round them off again!  Good news, I've got new nuts to refit.

 

Paul



#2 imack

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:07 PM

I always use a 1/2" ring spanner ok on my hardy spicer joint nuts although I may have to rotate the joint to the right position to get the spanner on.

Edited by imack, 30 December 2020 - 08:07 PM.


#3 floormanager

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:16 PM

I always use a 1/2" ring spanner ok on my hardy spicer joint nuts although I may have to rotate the joint to the right position to get the spanner on.

Thanks.  Well now it's out of the car, I can see what spanner will fit.  Certainly under the car, there's not a lot of options for different positions.  With the car jacked up, the wheels 'hang'.  I did try lifting the wheel so the HS was not so angled but I could not get the ring on.  Perhaps I need a thinner spanner (or grind one down)?

Paul



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:25 PM

Never have had issues getting any spanner’s on my HS nuts. Even if they were nylocks instead of the correct nuts.



#5 rww

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:37 PM

       On our racer, where the engine is in/out on a reasonably frequent basis, I have found it far quicker to leave the H/S joints in place and just pop the hubs/steering arms off and pull out and disconnect the drive shafts. You can then attack the Philidas nuts with a lot more space to access with the gearbox on the garage floor.

 

Accessing the nuts from beneath the car is difficult with each front wheel having to be jacked up so that the H/S joint can be rotated to gain access to each nut. From memory I think I have only ever got an open ended spanner on each nut, never a ring although I have never bothered to grind a ring down in size.  

 

Looking at the specification of the Philidas nut, it does create a strong mechanical lock when tightened which is not easily loosened. Ordinary self locking Nyloc nuts will of course be easier to remove.


Edited by rww, 30 December 2020 - 08:43 PM.


#6 floormanager

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:47 PM

Weird, Just tried again. Even off the car, this is the best I can manage

Attached File  20201230_203857-1.jpg   32.36K   12 downloads



#7 floormanager

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:50 PM

       On our racer, where the engine is in/out on a reasonably frequent basis, I have found it far quicker to leave the H/S joints in place and just pop the hubs/steering arms off and pull out and disconnect the drive shafts. You can then attack the Philidas nuts with a lot more space to access with the gearbox on the garage floor.

 

Accessing the nuts from beneath the car is difficult with each front wheel having to be jacked up so that the H/S joint can be rotated to gain access to each nut. From memory I think I have only ever got an open ended spanner on each nut, never a ring although I have never bothered to grind a ring down in size.  

 

Looking at the specification of the Philidas nut, it does create a strong mechanical lock when tightened which is not easily loosened. Ordinary self locking Nyloc nuts will of course be easier to remove.

Thank you, I might try this when I re-fit the engine.  Certainly easier than trying to do up the nuts underneath while not rounding them!  Guess I will not be getting a torque wrench on them.



#8 nicklouse

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 08:55 PM

Weird, Just tried again. Even off the car, this is the best I can manage

attachicon.gif 20201230_203857-1.jpg

Rotate the drive shaft.



#9 Maccmike8

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 09:26 PM

Crows foot spanner might help



#10 imack

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 09:36 PM

I've got 3 spanners that fit and one that doesn't, too much material around the ring!
My go to 1/2" & 9/16" ring spanner has actually been ground down at some time, although not for hardy spicers in particular.

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#11 floormanager

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 09:48 PM

I've got 3 spanners that fit and one that doesn't, too much material around the ring!
My go to 1/2" & 9/16" ring spanner has actually been ground down at some time, although not for hardy spicers in particular.

Dammit, trust me to have a too thick spanner!  They look nice and slim, just the jobby for those nuts!  Thank you for going to the trouble of checking and posting photos.  It's funny what trips you up, a 5/16 nut on something I thought would be straightforward.  All for not having a thin enough spanner!  I was surprised that you can't remove the HS bolts with the flanges bolted on the diff.  Lesson learnt today with my rebuilt g/box :(



#12 floormanager

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Posted 30 December 2020 - 10:03 PM

Just bought this off of ebay.

Attached File  spanner.JPG   67.44K   1 downloads



#13 Spider

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Posted 31 December 2020 - 02:19 AM

I used to undo them while in a pit under the car and with the weight still on the wheels, that put the drive shaft much flatter and so access to the nuts much easier.

 

I don't have a pit these days, but I put a jack under the Ball Joint to do much the same, just be very careful though doing them this way, in particular if the car is on stands.



#14 timmy850

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Posted 31 December 2020 - 04:35 AM

My best method is:
Work from above with the manifolds off
Reach down with an open end spanner
Push the car till the nut you want is accessible
Rock the car back and forth while using the spanner to slowly work it loose




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