14 replies to this topic

[PiG]

Hi,

 

Done a quick search and not got definitive answer to this for my situation:

 

Mpi mini currently in rebuild with strengthening mods done as per Vizard to the subframes.

 

Plan is to solid mount subframes, engine build approaching completion and starting to build subframe up including mounting the engine so it's all ready to go back into the car from underneath when the body is ready.

 

Question is what engine mounts, standard or anything better to use?

 

Thank you

Paul

[OzOAP]

Standard.

[PiG]

Standard.

Thank you, looking at your signature, I'll be taking your advice!  This car is being set up to be a b road car with occasional track use.

[cal844]

I agree, just use standard. No need for captive nut type (if they ain't lined up correctly they'll crossthread). Polyurethane type are just garbage

[MiniMadRacer]

Yes, STD all day long.. never ever used anything but STD  even in my Racers, but do mke sure the stabiliser bushes are all good and the STD engine mounts last a long long time.. engine flexing / rocking is the thing that foo bars them, along of course with people jacking the car up under the G Box / sump but thats a different argument / conversation

[Spider]

Just Standard but quality types.

[PiG]

Thank you everyone.

 

It's going back together with new bushes on the steadies and probably will look at upgrading or putting additional ones in.

[MiniMadRacer]

If its to be a road car I would stick with STD rubber bushes but by all means add the "extra / missng" factory fitted ones.. on my GT their is a flywheel side stabiliser that goes to the rear of the front subframe... I added an additional one to the radiartor end of the engine to the rear of the subframe, but all with STD bushes, and these ones dont need brackets welding to the subframe

[MiniMadRacer]

If you do the above the "dog bone" stabiliser bar needs twisting to fit properly as its designed for the right hnd side of the subbie as you sit in the driver seat.... I heated mine and then twisted it to the correct orientation

[nicklouse]

If you do the above the "dog bone" stabiliser bar needs twisting to fit properly as its designed for the right hnd side of the subbie as you sit in the driver seat.... I heated mine and then twisted it to the correct orientation

They are available for both sides as standard.

 

oh and they don’t do much or anything to reduce engine rock. But they do help stop the power unit moving for and aft on the engine mounts.

Edited by nicklouse, 01 January 2021 - 01:14 PM.

[MiniMadRacer]

I ddint know they were avaliable for both sides.. they werent back in the 80s or maybe I just had a spare right hand side one and decided to modify that. And yes agreed they wont stop much rock but will help the engine mountings by reducing any twist effect also

[Carlos W]

I used the captive nut type once....

Well, I say used, I destroyed a captive nut type once.

Never again.

[nicklouse]

I ddint know they were avaliable for both sides.. they werent back in the 80s or maybe I just had a spare right hand side one and decided to modify that. And yes agreed they wont stop much rock but will help the engine mountings by reducing any twist effect also

They have been available for a long time. Mine was used when I got it in the 80s

[Cooperman]

I used the captive nut type once....

Well, I say used, I destroyed a captive nut type once.

Never again.

Damn right.
The best thing to do is to weld two 5/16" nuts onto the mounts.
Then make the holes in the sub-frame slightly larger - I go to 3/8" dia - and use larger outside dia washers. Grease the faces of the sub-frame where themounts fit before lowering the engine and box into the car.

[Carlos W]

Grease the faces of the sub-frame where the mounts fit before lowering the engine and box into the car.

I think this is also where I went wrong.

I'll know for next time