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Trouble Wiring Coil


Best Answer Dusky , 16 January 2021 - 05:23 PM

You can follow the white pink wire, about 10-20 cm after the fuse box it starts. That’s where I connected my new wire. A 1.5mm2 cable is ample. Go to the full post


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#31 KernowCooper

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 09:05 PM

To check if the Hall Effect Trigger is working in the distributor, Place a low wattage bulb <2w. into a bulb holder, place the wire from bulb holder centre pin onto the 12v connection of the coil and the other bulb holder connection onto the negative terminal of the coil. crank the car over with the plug leads off and you should see the bulb flash on/off. If it doesn't do anything the Hall effect trigger is faulty.

 



#32 Steve Tattersall

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 07:40 PM

Thanks all, the advice has been great.

Right, I have a spark. And my hangover from celebrating the fact has almost worn off.

So, I decided to make a test light as it seemed easier to see if voltage was present with an 'on or off' indicator rather than the multimeter which, as I had explained, showed a fluctuating reading with the wire I took to be the main supply.

The test light worked well across obvious circuits like the battery but was as dead as a Dodo on my supply wire. That got me thinking there must be another somewhere. So I dug around and found two wires, linked together, hidden under part of the bodywork above the grille. One is pink, the other yellow and they're wound together at the open end. The test light showed they had a power supply so with that wire connected to +ve on the coil and my spark tester in position, I cranked her up and got that elusive spark. My 'whoop' could probably have been heard in Outer Mongolia.

 

I have read somewhere that the pink wire is actually the ballast resistor. Is that right? My Spit has a plastic unit for that.

Also I think I also read somewhere that with electronic ignition I'd be better off WITHOUT the ballast resistor. Is that also the case? And if so how do I go about replacing it? I mean what makes a wire a ballast resistor and not just a wire?

 

Thanks!


Edited by Steve Tattersall, 15 January 2021 - 08:51 PM.


#33 KTS

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 08:22 PM

..the fact that it is made from a material that has a higher electrical resistivity than a standard copper conductor has 



#34 Steve Tattersall

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 08:27 PM

Should I keep it?



#35 Dusky

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 08:49 PM

That pink wire is a bit of a fire hazard. It supplies only 9V to the coil. If your coil is a 9V one it’s all good.

#36 KTS

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 08:54 PM

FAQ section has an article on converting to a non-ballast setup.

https://www.theminif...d-12v-ignition/

#37 Steve Tattersall

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 09:58 PM

Ah. I get it. I have an electronic ignition set up with a 12v powerspark coil which came with it so no I don't need the ballast or my spark will be weaker. However saying that I'm certain I don't have a ballast resistor anyway as I'm sure I'm getting 12v at the coil. I guess the pink wire is just a remnant of what once was connected to a ballast. I'll double check that tho.

Thanks muchly. I've learned a lot.

Steve



#38 Steve Tattersall

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 10:11 PM

FAQ section has an article on converting to a non-ballast setup.

https://www.theminif...d-12v-ignition/

Brilliant thanks



#39 Steve Tattersall

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 04:42 PM

Just a quicky to finish this off. That pink and white wire, as I say I do have one. It goes all the way from the fuses to the coil. That's what people on this thread have suggested IS a ballast resistor. And yet I'm getting 12v at the end of it (ie at the coil +ve) with ignition on.

If it IS the ballast resistor shouldn't the voltage be down nearer 6-9v?

I know it doesn't really matter now I have a spark but I would like to understand what's going on.

Thanks



#40 sonscar

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 04:48 PM

The voltage will most likely fall when a load is applied.Multimeters are a valuable tool but need care in an automotive situation.EG you may only have one strand of wire connected to the headlamp and the meter will say 12v,but load it with the lamp and it will be zero possibly.Not all 12v are equal.Steve..



#41 Steve Tattersall

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 05:07 PM

Right OK thanks. I'll bypass it then just to be sure. Can you please suggest the type/grade of wire I would need to bypass it with? I'll run it from the fuse to the coil along the loom. Where would you get it from?

Cheers



#42 Dusky

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 05:23 PM   Best Answer

You can follow the white pink wire, about 10-20 cm after the fuse box it starts. That’s where I connected my new wire. A 1.5mm2 cable is ample.

#43 Steve Tattersall

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 05:27 PM

Cheers.






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