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Fixed Rear Neg Camber Brackets Top Bolts!

suspension

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#1 Justin85

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 08:41 AM

Morning all,

I know these have been discussed loads, but I'm trying to fit the Mini Spares fixed Rear camber brackets. I can get 3 out of 4 bolts in, all the holes line up etc, but there's no way I can seem to get the top bolt over the top of the radius arm to then thread into the hole.

I guess with the adjustable bracket you could adjust the radius arm down slightly, line the top bolt up and do it up, adjust the radius arm and carry on.

I've tried rotating the radius arm by jacking it up which helps, but the bolts just won't line up with the top hole true enough to get started. The arm is always in the way.

Anybody have any tips? I knew I should have bought the KAD brackets!!

Cheers
Justin

#2 nicklouse

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 09:08 AM

Use a smaller drive set socket.

 

I guess you are using 1/2” drive sockets.



#3 imack

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 09:39 AM

I think it's the same with all the adjustable rear camber brackets. You need to back the adjustment right off and the big nut on the end of the radius arm pivot shaft needs to be loose. Also have all the other 3 camber bracket bolts slack. Top bolt hole should then be just as accessible as on a standard camber bracket.
Tighten all 4 bolts then set the camber and tightenthe big nut on the end of the radius arm pivot shaft. When you set negative camber the top camber bracket is generally inaccessible.

#4 GraemeC

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 10:07 AM

I think it's the same with all the adjustable rear camber brackets.

He has fixed brackets.

 

Leave every thing as loose as possible, including both radius arm pin nuts. As Nick notes - 3/8” drive sockets to tighten.



#5 imack

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 10:17 AM


I think it's the same with all the adjustable rear camber brackets.

He has fixed brackets.

Leave every thing as loose as possible, including both radius arm pin nuts. As Nick notes - 3/8” drive sockets to tighten.

Doh, missed that!!

Always read the question twice!

#6 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 10:21 AM

I recall its best if the arm is free to swing up and down to get the optimum angle to get a clear run at the bolts, so if you havent done so, remove the trumpet and donut so you can have full travel on the arm.... I take the drum off too as it makes it a lot lighter to lift..



#7 sonscar

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 10:28 AM

I might be remembering wrong but does the arm not have a shallow depression to enable easier fitting of the bolts?Steve..



#8 Justin85

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 10:47 AM

Thanks all. There is a shallow depression on the arm, but I can't even get a bolt in with my fingers at a shallow enough angle to get started - let alone get a socket on it. I thought I'd see if a captive hex head bolt would squeeze past but it's miles away from being able to get started. Needless to say, I wouldn't use non tensile stainless when I fit it for good but pics to illustrate.

I've tried with the other bolts loose etc but it just seems miles away!

Cheers.

Attached Files



#9 nicklouse

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 10:49 AM

Undo all the other bolts. Pull arm away from subframe. Wiggle bolt through hole in bracket. Then screw bolt into subframe. Fit other three bolts. Tighten. 


Edited by nicklouse, 10 January 2021 - 11:10 AM.


#10 OzOAP

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 11:05 AM

Put that bolt into bracket before fitting bracket to arm.

#11 Justin85

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Posted 10 January 2021 - 11:22 AM

Thanks chaps. I will man up and try that method again!

Justin





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