13 replies to this topic

[Blake71]

Good evening,

I'm currently fittig a new walnut dash in the mini, clocks out all checked and back imto the new dash, wiring inspected while the dash was out.

Plugged everything in for a test before fitting the dash and the igntion light has stopped coming on when I turn the igntion key (everything else works fine). I've checked the bulb and its fine, I've had a good luck at the PCB linking the 3 clocks and I cant see any obvious damage or significant wear.

Anyone had this problem before or any idea what this may be?

 

Thanks in advance

[Quinlan minor]

Obvious question, but I have to ask.

Have you checked the fuse?

[Blake71]

Yes, checked the fuse too 😁

[sonscar]

If it was ok before you started it is almost certainly something you have done.Pretend that I did it and check everything again assuming I am an idiot.Good faulting,Steve..

[Blake71]

If it was ok before you started it is almost certainly something you have done.Pretend that I did it and check everything again assuming I am an idiot.Good faulting,Steve..

 

Cheers, yeah no doubt something simple just can't find it at the moment. Thanks

[GraemeC]

If the the oil pressure warning light and the fuel/temp gauges on the cluster are working it is unlikely to be the +12V ignition feed.

Check the connection of the brown/yellow cable at both cluster and the back of the alternator (the thinner of the cables that goes to the smaller of the 3 terminals in the plug). 

If all looks good, remove the plug from the alternator and earth the brown/yellow wire and then turn the ignition on.

[Blake71]

If the the oil pressure warning light and the fuel/temp gauges on the cluster are working it is unlikely to be the +12V ignition feed.

Check the connection of the brown/yellow cable at both cluster and the back of the alternator (the thinner of the cables that goes to the smaller of the 3 terminals in the plug). 

If all looks good, remove the plug from the alternator and earth the brown/yellow wire and then turn the ignition on.

Thanks, I'll have a look at that tonight 

[weef]

Use a multimeter on the volts DC range to start with.

Meter negative lead to a known good earth check, with the ignition ON and the warning lamp removed,  for battery voltage on one side of the IGN lampholder. Once you have established that the battery voltage is present at the lampholder move the meter negative lead to the other side of the lampholder and check the battery voltage can still be measured.

If on the first test you cannot measure battery voltage you will have to check back on the circuit until you can measure it, but if the oil light works as you say I would assume it to be there if not there could be a break on the PCB.

If on the second test it is not there you will have to look at the continuity of the connection to the alternator. Disconnect the three pin alternator plug and refit a known good lamp, earth out the alternator feed  lead at  convenient points and see when the Ignition lamp illuminates. Start nearest to the dash and work down to the alternator. The lamp will light when there is continuity to earth, so if it does not come on then the fault will be between the test point and the lamp 

[KernowCooper]

Earth the small exciter wire on the alternator and the light should come on when you turn the ignition on, if not back track the circuit inside and carry out the checks mentioned above

[Blake71]

Earth the small exciter wire on the alternator and the light should come on when you turn the ignition on, if not back track the circuit inside and carry out the checks mentioned above

[Blake71]

Should the exciter wire be live with the ignition on?

[sonscar]

Yes,Steve..

[Blake71]

Yes,Steve..

[Blake71]

Cheers