52 replies to this topic

[Fab]

Hi everyone,

 

Thanks for having me here. Since I'm not a Mini owner yet but looking to be one soon, I decided to skip the introduction post until I'm able to say "I'm the owner of a [insert my future fabulour Mini model]" 

 

Now, I'm just starting to discover the universe of all Mini models and variations, which is quite enough to find myself a bit lost, or at least not too confident in what I should get.

 

Therefore I thought I could describe a bit what I'm looking for, what are my constraints, and see if you'd have a few good models, years and trims to recommend for me to look for?

 

Here is the wishlist for my modest future acquisition:

• A classic Mini for myself and my fiancee (a bit of an early wedding gift to ourselves)
• I like any maker (Morris, Austin, Rover...) or variation (round nose, Traveller, GT...)
• A bit twitchy and agile (owned a couple hot hatchbacks) if possible
• Reasonably drivable the highway (sustain 70mph without a headache after ~1 hour)
• Available in a reasonable condition under 10,000 quids in the UK
• Relatively reliable (I know about owning older cars, but I can't spend too much time tinkering and don't own a garage)
• + Able to sleep outside (private parking) without making a monster of the owner 

 

So far, I've been considering late Rovers 1275 as reasonable fit, more accessible than earlier Morris or Austin, cheaper than GTs and Coopers, and a bit more fun than smaller engines or Travellers... what do you think? Anything else worth considering?

 

Note: I live in South-East England, if any model/dealer/resource is recommendable in this region.

[oohaargh]

Sounds like you're on the right track - 1275 is probably the right plan for your motorway and twitchiness requirements. Cooper models are twitchier but also more expensive so a vanilla 1275 might be a better bet, it's going to be a trade off between condition and cost.

The main subsets of minis there are carb (up to ~1991 I think), single point injection (91-96) and multi point injection (post 1996).

Most of the 90s special editions are really just trim differences on the same cars so just down to personal taste in that front

[cal844]

Personally go for a well sorted early 80s car as the later 86 onwards were made with the cheapest steel ever used in production

[steeley]

Personally go for a well sorted early 80s car as the later 86 onwards were made with the cheapest steel ever used in production

I’d agree my 84 mini was in way better nick body wise than the 92 I had, and the later ones were even
worse due to cost saving when built

998 with a decent bit of headwork, exhaust and 3.44 final drive would be nice and perky

[MiniMadRacer]

As a general rule, maintenance and fixing of bodywork is the same on all the models, though as mentioned maybe needed sooner on the later Minis. For me the big issue would be whether you want  Carb or fuel injection, pretty much determined by the year of manufacture you are looking at. There are lots of experts out there on Carb and injection models (SPI and MPI) but by and large you are more limite don the Injection models to what "you" can do yourself. Also the injection experts are limited compared to the Carb versions I would say/ If you buy an Injection you will need to get the correct diagnostic tools I would say.

 

998 versus 1275 I would say little difference really in terms of cruising, they rev pretty much the same for the same mph speed, of course the 1275 as standard will have more power so accelerate slightly quicker but its not a massive difference in standard format.

 

If you go the Injection route its 1275 with no choice (I think)

 

998 parts where they are not shared with the 1275 are cheaper but also slightly rarer which kind of equates to not much of a price difference.

 

Finally regardless of model, go for the best bodywork you can find (not an easy or obvious task as the shiny one is prob not the best)

 

Join a local club and when you buy see if you can get one of the local experts to go with you, before COVID the usual UK remuneration for such a service tended to be beer tokens

 

Hope the ramble helps a little.

[Fab]

Thanks for all the tips, it's very useful!

 

So pre-1991 or even pre-86 (998 or 1275) seems to be the consensus, although an later injection could still be valid (rust is probably more of an issue in my case than being able to work on it myself, due to the absence of a garage). Depending on condition of course.

 

I'll have a look at the owner clubs in Surrey, although covid & being lost in the countryside without a functionning car will certainly make that a bit more challenging 

 

Cheers

[some1158]

Bodywork really is the critical thing, as much of the mechanical side can be improved to suit your taste, and unless you want originality the interior can also be upgraded.

 

Bear in mind that Minis rust from the inside out, so surface rust is rarely just that. Check sills (make sure they are vented sills, not oversills); check the floors and companion bins inside the car, and the boot; check underneath; check the front end! If the car has just been resprayed make sure a decent job was done first on any rust i.e. cut out and replaced, rather than filled. For £10k you should be able to get something very decent. If in doubt walk away - there will always be other Minis. 

[Fab]

French native speaker kicking in: are the sills a painted or a structural part (frame)? if not, wouldn't they be easy to replace?

Is there a way to detect fill vs cut out & replaced? (magnet? unless filling can be done with steel)

 

 

Bonus question: are automatic gearboxes on classic Minis any good? I saw a couple offers here and there, and I wouldn't mind if they're not rubbish (lived in a couple countries where it was the norm)

[Sprinkler23]

1275 is certainly quicker and more fun to drive, but gets hot quicker than a 998. Even in cold weather mine very quickly activated the fan. 

[Revd]

If you can stretch the budget speak to Richard Williams Classic Minis, example from his website recently sold 1989 Mini 30 Auto, 12300 miles, £13995. Next problem if you buy something like that though: is it too good to park in the street and use as a daily driver?

[Fab]

If you can stretch the budget speak to Richard Williams Classic Minis, example from his website recently sold 1989 Mini 30 Auto, 12300 miles, £13995. Next problem if you buy something like that though: is it too good to park in the street and use as a daily driver?

 

One of the reasons (on top of having to pay for a wedding this year) I prefer not putting above 10k on this (first?) Mini, yet trying to get the best out of it. :) Thanks though!

Edited by Fab, 15 January 2021 - 10:03 AM.

[some1158]

Sills are easily replaced and inexpensive. The problem comes that people sometimes deal with a rotten sill by fitting an 'oversill' over the top of the original, which then continues to rust away underneath and tends to spread into the floor. This type of sill also makes the wrong junction with the floor which some argue is structurally problematic.

 

The correct type sills have open vents in them. The oversills have sealed square lumps sticking out hiding the vents under. 

 

Sometimes people do fit the oversill type even though they have removed the original; it's sometimes said that they must be better because they lack the vents. I am not convinced of that. I would look for the vented type. On my own car the original sills lasted 21 years and were then replaced, in both cases with the correct vented type. 

 

Automatic: tend to be lower mileage as they usually have been owned by older drivers, so bodywork may be very good. The design is unusual but reputed to be fun and it can be driven like a manual. They must have had frequent oil changes however - it's even more critical than the manual. Without these oil changes there could be problems. 

[some1158]

Sills - see https://www.theminif...they-look-like/

 

Auto (Clubman version):

[Quinlan minor]

For what it's worth, if you can find an MPi, that's had the bodywork done, they are, probably best suited to daily driving, IMO.

But, of course, I would say that.

Attached Files

•  2019 L2B OS.jpg   61.85K   1 downloads

[Fab]

For what it's worth, if you can find an MPi, that's had the bodywork done, they are, probably best suited to daily driving, IMO.

But, of course, I would say that.

 

  I've been pondering that quite a bit. As much as tinkering sounds exciting, as a daily for the fiancee and me + sometimes long distance (France) + no proper space to work (my kingdom for a garage), a late classic has its perks.

What do you mean by having the "bodywork done"?