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Modification Of Hi Lo Trumpet


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#1 croc7

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Posted 13 January 2021 - 10:01 PM

Replaced the rear red dot cones first, then a month later did the front.  Have driven about 800 miles on the rear cones and they seem to have settled as much as they will.  The front cones, with about 400 miles have settled a bit but not as much as I would like.  I thought, considering the weight of the engine, the front cones would settle faster.  The front Hi-Lo's are adjusted as low as they will go without fouling the plate on the inside of the cone, leaving about 1/8" between the locknut and the head of the adjuster screw.  I'll give them another couple of months but if cones don't compress more, I am considering shortening the Hi-Lo trumpet to achieve the ride height that I want.  My question is, by shortening the adjuster end, how much thread should be left inside the trumpet without compromising safety?  As close as I can measure, the unmodified trumpet has about an inch of thread.   And where is the majority of the stress concentrated?  Is it on the locknut/threads or a combination of thread engagement inside the trumpet plus locknut/adjuster screw threads?  Or, am I overthinking this??



#2 GraemeC

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Posted 13 January 2021 - 10:21 PM

The red dots don’t settle that much - they may have already got to their natural state.

 

Don’t modify the body of the HiLo, instead shorten the threaded section so it doesn’t foul on the cone. Just removing 3/8” will give you the possibility to drop the ride height over an inch.



#3 croc7

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Posted 13 January 2021 - 10:47 PM

The red dots don’t settle that much - they may have already got to their natural state.

 

Don’t modify the body of the HiLo, instead shorten the threaded section so it doesn’t foul on the cone. Just removing 3/8” will give you the possibility to drop the ride height over an inch.

I am reluctant to modify the body of the HiLo but there is only about 1/8" of adjustment left between the locknut and the head of the screw before it would bottom out.



#4 Pigeonto

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Posted 13 January 2021 - 11:43 PM

We always machine at least 10mm from the hi lo otherwise its just a hi and you don't get any advantage as to the ease of fittng them in. You won't need a compressor for the donut, other than to hold it in place while fitting the hi lo and top arm. Remove the same from the thread or a bit more

#5 dyshipfakta

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 07:21 AM

Have you used the right knuckles? I seem to remember there are some with a spacer/shoulder that will raise the ride height considerably. Don’t quote me though

#6 GraemeC

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 08:09 AM

 

The red dots don’t settle that much - they may have already got to their natural state.

 

Don’t modify the body of the HiLo, instead shorten the threaded section so it doesn’t foul on the cone. Just removing 3/8” will give you the possibility to drop the ride height over an inch.

I am reluctant to modify the body of the HiLo but there is only about 1/8" of adjustment left between the locknut and the head of the screw before it would bottom out.

 

That doesn’t sound right - are these genuine HiLo or the cheap version?

 

As above - what knuckles are you using and is everything seated properly? 
 

Any photos we could see to help us help you?


Edited by GraemeC, 14 January 2021 - 08:09 AM.


#7 mattrsa

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 09:27 AM

Sorry to hijack the thread but I would also be interested in seeing some pictures of the ride height as I am going for the same set up (red cones , hi lows and lowered gaz shocks) 



#8 imack

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 10:08 AM

I modified the cones on mine, mounted them in the lathe and turned 8mm off the fronts and 5mm off the steel ring that locates in the subframe. I also have the original type hilo's that adjust only via the Allen key in the top of the bolt. This needed about 2mm machined from the top of it to stop it fouling the underside of the cone where the compressor screws in when set to minimum height.

#9 croc7

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 09:24 PM

Have you used the right knuckles? I seem to remember there are some with a spacer/shoulder that will raise the ride height considerably. Don’t quote me though

Yep, used the correct knuckle.  Nice thought though.



#10 croc7

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 09:34 PM

 

 

The red dots don’t settle that much - they may have already got to their natural state.

 

Don’t modify the body of the HiLo, instead shorten the threaded section so it doesn’t foul on the cone. Just removing 3/8” will give you the possibility to drop the ride height over an inch.

I am reluctant to modify the body of the HiLo but there is only about 1/8" of adjustment left between the locknut and the head of the screw before it would bottom out.

 

That doesn’t sound right - are these genuine HiLo or the cheap version?

 

As above - what knuckles are you using and is everything seated properly? 
 

Any photos we could see to help us help you?

 

Yeah, double checked the installation, the cone is properly seated in the subframe as is the Hi Lo into the cone.  Genuine Hi Lo & correct knuckles.  Posting pictures is out my technology comfort zone.

 

The subframe is from an a car with an automatic transmission, but should be the same height regarding the suspension components as compared to a manual, right?

 

I think the problem may be with the red dot cones, taking longer to settle or be taller than OE cones.


Edited by croc7, 14 January 2021 - 09:44 PM.


#11 croc7

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Posted 14 January 2021 - 09:42 PM

Sorry to hijack the thread but I would also be interested in seeing some pictures of the ride height as I am going for the same set up (red cones , hi lows and lowered gaz shocks) 

The initial distance between the top of the tire and the flare was a good four fingers at all four corners.  Settled a bit and was able to  adjust the rear to be 9 1/4" to the lower body seam.  Front measurement still at 9 1/4" with the Hi Lo adjusted fully in.  Kind of wish that I had opted to try the Mini Spares' new EVO cone rather than the red dots, although I like the ride of them.



#12 Clip

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Posted 15 January 2021 - 07:12 AM

Not sure if this has any impact on your specific issue, but check that you’re not using trumpets for the coil springs. I got caught with this from a very popular online mini spares shop and while everything fitted up perfectly, it was pointed out to me by a real expert that knew the difference - he was fitting my engine at the time. Evidently there are lots out there being sold and very few are correctly identified. 


Edited by Clip, 15 January 2021 - 07:14 AM.


#13 croc7

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Posted 18 January 2021 - 03:21 AM

Not sure if this has any impact on your specific issue, but check that you’re not using trumpets for the coil springs. I got caught with this from a very popular online mini spares shop and while everything fitted up perfectly, it was pointed out to me by a real expert that knew the difference - he was fitting my engine at the time. Evidently there are lots out there being sold and very few are correctly identified.

Thanks for the thought but they are the genuine Hi Lo adjustable trumpets.

#14 Revd

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Posted 18 January 2021 - 08:29 AM

I recently fitted MED HI-Lo and red spots plus 10” wheels to my 87 Advantage. Cones settled hardly at all. Measurements from floor to body seam are 8-1/2” front, 9-1/4” rear with some scope for a small amount of lowering

#15 MiNiKiN

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Posted 18 January 2021 - 09:24 AM

I have got the Minispares HiLo-Kit and red dot cones for the front. I compared the Hi-Lo's to the original aluminium trumpet and noticed that the HiLo's are 8mm shorter at their lowest setting.

The red-dots have the same unsettled height as the used OE Dunlop cones from the rear.

 

Would you still machine off some material from the HiLo's as a precautionary measure?


Edited by MiNiKiN, 18 January 2021 - 09:30 AM.





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