33 replies to this topic

[MiNiKiN]

Minispares write that when fitting negative camber arms "ST Abingdon always advised fitting a 3mm plate under the top arm where the bump stop 2A4267 hits."

 

I tried and nicely added the 3mm to the top arm, but then struggled to get it between top arm and lower bump stop.

I kind of cannot figure out what the reason for this shimming is, and why the neg.-camber arms should make it necessary. Any clues?

 

[GraemeC]

Negative camber lower arms make the ball joints sit at more of an angle. So to prevent the ball joint binding solid under full droop it is recommended to add the shim and therefore reduce how far the suspension can drop.

 

I must admit I've never seen a car ride that high that there isn't sufficient room to add a 3mm shim. - my rally car, which is higher than most people would consider running a car, has about 10mm space.

I always add the lower bump stop in last, once the car is sat on its wheels.

Edited by GraemeC, 18 January 2021 - 09:46 AM.

[MiNiKiN]

Thx Graeme, your explanation makes perfect sense The subframe is currently out and I made the shim such that it is bolted to the top arm with a nicely countersunk screw.

Trouble is - I can get the shim in, but can't insert and tighten the screw without removing the top arm and cone assembly again - Which I thought I could avoid as it is a PITA 

[nicklouse]

Bend a spanner to do the job.

 

as Graeme has mentioned it is to stop the ball joint pin touching the cup in droop. As this can cause the ball joint to fail.

[GraemeC]

I would've thought it should be possible to assemble it as you are, although I've not tried:

Remove the droop stop (if fitted), compress the cone (or completely wind in the the Hi Lo if fitted), attached the plate using a 1/4" hex drive bit and suitable ratchet.

Fit the droop stop once the subframe is on the car and the weight of the car compresses the suspension if needed.

[OzOAP]

[MiNiKiN]

Mine is a bit more refined, Oz ;)

[MiNiKiN]

Austrian engineering

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[OzOAP]

Mine is a bit more refined, Oz ;)

What is refined about it?
I went for adjustability. How do you adjust yours? Fiddling about with different thickness offcuts of bits of metal?
We use this on FIA Historic, Mini 7, Mini Miglia....

Edited by OzOAP, 19 January 2021 - 07:17 AM.

[OzOAP]

English engineering....It works

Edited by OzOAP, 19 January 2021 - 07:19 AM.

[MiNiKiN]

Not up for a bit of banter?
Yours is prob. good for track use, but on bumpy B-roads and dirt track, where you regarly hit the down stop, I would never want this to be metal-on-metal.

[OzOAP]

Not aiming to be racing down dirt tracks to be honest.

[Spider]

I think it's more horses for courses.

 

On the Track and even largely the road, you don't often get to full droop where as dirt tracks and the like, you get there often.

[Ethel]

I'd be a little surprised if it's actually an issue - how many Minis actually had rebound stop with any rubber left on them back in the days when they weren't pampered metal pets?

 

Also a tad surprised that the makers of aftermarket goodies didn't address the issue by realigning the drillings & facing.

[nicklouse]

I'd be a little surprised if it's actually an issue - how many Minis actually had rebound stop with any rubber left on them back in the days when they weren't pampered metal pets?

 

Also a tad surprised that the makers of aftermarket goodies didn't address the issue by realigning the drillings & facing.

How many Minis have lower ball joint failures and no longer have the rebound buffer in place or have not had the extra spacer or have not had the shock length changed to stop the pin touching the cup?