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Which Bits Would You Use, Budget Fast Road 998


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#1 3VILC

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 12:30 AM

So as a bit of a follow on from my last post, we'll try keep this simple. Not chasing every single HP possible and with the exception of distributor that needs replacing anyway, and a reground cam and associated bits, and exhaust etc will be replaced, want to try and make use of as much as possible from whats already in the parts bin without buying any more engine parts, where possible. The basic idea being to put a cleaned up and appropriately skimmed 12g202 head onto something and make a little bit better 998 while its already out of the car.  So basically wanting opinions on what parts you would use if you had only my parts stack available, to make a 998, and why.

 

In the stack of spare parts available;

A complete running 74ish 998

A 76 1098 basically long block and gearbox (obviously this is the source of the head and an HS4)

An A+ 998 short block only (crank+pistons but not much else)

An 850 long block possible source of spare nuts bolts pulleys etc and not much else.

 

I guess the most obvious question is to avoid disturbing too much and just use the 998 thats already running as a base, or start from scratch and use the A+ block and adapt everything else to fit (bar the dizzy but since I need a new one anyway not really an issue with that bit)



#2 nicklouse

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 12:40 AM

You say the dizzy needs replacing. nah. It might need a bit or reconditioning and the advance curve correcting. 
 

send it off to AC Dodd for sorting. It will work correctly anD most likely cost less than a new incorrectly curved dizzy.

 

as to the engine. Strip clean and measure. Replace/rework as needed.

 

it really depends on how far you are wanting to go to make a real build.



#3 3VILC

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 01:01 AM

You say the dizzy needs replacing. nah. It might need a bit or reconditioning and the advance curve correcting. 
 

send it off to AC Dodd for sorting. It will work correctly anD most likely cost less than a new incorrectly curved dizzy.

 

as to the engine. Strip clean and measure. Replace/rework as needed.

 

it really depends on how far you are wanting to go to make a real build.

As the engine sits its only been run enough to verify it did actually run, so whichever way will probably pull apart check/clean/measure everything anyway as you say. Visually inspecting I would be suprised if the dizzy currently has no advance curve i would be suprised if either the vac or mechanical mechasims are capable of moving.

Most interested to do we go to the effort of swapping all the bits to the A+ block or just use the A block. I guess once the old head is off a check of how worn the bores are will be a starting indication



#4 Dusky

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 06:32 AM

Do you have the 1098 crank too? I’d be tempted to build a 1098 if you already had the parts.

#5 3VILC

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 07:27 AM

Do you have the 1098 crank too? I’d be tempted to build a 1098 if you already had the parts.


Yes the 1098 was also a runner just missing dizzy manifolds starter etc and its sitting on the wrong type of gearbox. But that is also another option. Won't be going in a daily daily driver so just trying to make my mind up whats going to be the most fun result using what I've got

#6 Dusky

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 08:46 AM

A properly built 1098 will give you lots of usable torque on the road. Torque makes driving fun.

#7 timmy850

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 10:32 AM

Best way to make budget power from your 998 is make it a 1098 - especially if you already have the crank.

I’ve got a 1098 with a modified head, cam etc and it goes really well for a road engine, lots of low down grunt

#8 ings

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 11:53 AM

Best upgrade for my 998 was a electronic dizzy. gave me much more torque in the lower rpm, better starting and smooth engine.

I have a CSI... and i will never chage it. when i upgrade something i can change the map.



#9 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 07:03 PM

Personally I think a 1098 is massively underrated.. back in the day it got a reputation for not being able to rev without lunching itself, but that was pretty much because it was compared with the 970 and 1070 'S' and latterly the 1275 'S' whcih you could rag the a.... off... the 1098 makes a lovely car hence used in the heavier Clubman Estates, and will rev on a road car as well as any road engine does... on a road car keep it below 6000 to 6500, build it properly and its a lovely engine.. if you want an 8 to 9,000 screamer then it probably is not the engine for you



#10 3VILC

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Posted 21 January 2021 - 08:47 PM

See this is why I ask you guys 🤣 Kindof making me lean much more towards using the whole 1098 now. Which is probably the more sensible choice with a decent cam profile

#11 timmy850

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Posted 22 January 2021 - 03:47 AM

Calver sells flat top pistons for the 1098, with some more compression, a reasonable cam and a cleaned up head it’ll get along nicely. The 1098 needs a different distributor timing curve to a 998, so make sure you get a suitable one or have yours recurved.

https://www.calverst...webshop/engine/




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