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Reaming - Rear Radius Arms


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#16 E1LDR

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Posted 25 January 2021 - 01:41 PM

Thanks all, and thanks Ethel for the link. I’ll take a look.

#17 VLChurchill

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 12:27 PM

The point is you don’t buy this tool if you just want to rebuild a few pairs of arms, if you want to do many this is the kit you need. I decided to make one as the original tools are mostly worn out now and are of the throw away type. Mine, you simply replace the reamer at the end when it wears out for minimal cost. Tool for life basically.

Ac

 

The original if looked after could and still can be resharpened.



#18 VLChurchill

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 12:31 PM

Read somewhere someone made a tool out of an old pin by grinding some slots axially along the surface that fits in the bushing.
Just about to do this job myself and was thinking I'd give it a try to see how well it works

 

The pin which you intend to use as a tool to cut a new bush already has clearance and would not be of any use as a tool to cut a bush to fit another pin of the same size, there would be no clearance and it would be too tight to be of any use as a bearing system.



#19 Icey

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 02:31 PM

 

Read somewhere someone made a tool out of an old pin by grinding some slots axially along the surface that fits in the bushing.
Just about to do this job myself and was thinking I'd give it a try to see how well it works

 

The pin which you intend to use as a tool to cut a new bush already has clearance and would not be of any use as a tool to cut a bush to fit another pin of the same size, there would be no clearance and it would be too tight to be of any use as a bearing system.

 

I have such a DIY tool and it's purpose is not to produce the finished size but to ream it close enough and parallel enough to be able to use an expanding reamer to finish to size matching the new pin. Without the DIY tool, it's difficult/impossible to use generic tools and have the bushing parallel with the needle bearing.

 

I've done a couple of arms with this setup and the end result is pretty good (5 years on and still good enough for the MOT testers). One thing to note, the pin does blunt quite quickly so don't expect to setup shop reaming industrial quantities of arms!

 

(It was actually Ratty, from this forum that made the pin many, many years ago - if you're reading this, let me know and I'll drop it back round. 10 years is long enough to borrow a tool for!)


Edited by Icey, 02 February 2021 - 02:34 PM.


#20 Spider

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 07:54 PM

Read somewhere someone made a tool out of an old pin by grinding some slots axially along the surface that fits in the bushing.
Just about to do this job myself and was thinking I'd give it a try to see how well it works

I have a kinda hybrid version of that. This is the I made about 30 years back;-

 

g59QoTG.jpg

 

It's an adjustable reamer, bored, then I turned an old pin to fit in the other end.

 

el2uadB.jpg

 

I do have a bush that I can use with this to align it to the Bearing or more often that not, I've used it with the old Bearing in place, fitted and reamed the new bush, cleaned the arm, then fitted the new bearing.



#21 Ethel

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 08:09 PM

I've "reamed" bushes with wet 'n dry taped round a socket. You'd be very lucky to get good enough alignment here, but if you'd taken care of that & just needed to get a running clearance I think it could work.



#22 VLChurchill

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 10:30 PM

I've "reamed" bushes with wet 'n dry taped round a socket. You'd be very lucky to get good enough alignment here, but if you'd taken care of that & just needed to get a running clearance I think it could work.

 

I'd prefer to call that "wearing out to size" :D 



#23 VLChurchill

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Posted 02 February 2021 - 10:36 PM

A lot of these methods will do a good enough job to get it MOT'd but a personal "bug bear" of mine is those using these or similar methods and then selling them on to the public as correct, my point is it's either right or wrong, wrong being too lose or too tight.  If you really wanted to do a good job then line hone them, I don't mean one of those "glaze buster" type things, but a proper manual hone with a guide bush as this method would be more circular than using a reamer and you can feed it out to get the correct tolerance, also a hone leaves "oil grooves" that retain grease in the bush for longer.



#24 MiNiKiN

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Posted 03 February 2021 - 12:34 AM

When you hone with an adjustable reamer, how much do you take of with each pass? 1/100mm or more?



#25 ADRay

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Posted 03 February 2021 - 01:14 PM

my two cents... I attempted to remove the old bushings and bearings, press in new ones and team them myself. I thought I’d successfully done it with one, and brought the other to a machine shop. The machinist checked the one I did and found fault with it. Apparently, I had scored up the hole enough to damage the casing of the roller bearing. He said next time, let them do the removal, reinstall and reaming.

Long story short, for $100 usd, the machine shop did it precisely and fast.

#26 VLChurchill

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Posted 03 February 2021 - 07:40 PM

When you hone with an adjustable reamer, how much do you take of with each pass? 1/100mm or more?

 

Hone with a ream ?  sorry it's not possible to do this, ream with a ream that's possible :)  a ream will create a nasty hole unless there is a decent amount of material in the bush to start with, ideally 0.010" to 0.015" should be left on the bush bore for reaming and you would remove that in one go, the correct tool for this job had a very low rake angle to stop the reamer from "bouncing" around in the bore.

 

A hone is a sort of grinding action and creates a much more accurate bore, much better roundness and cylindricity, as long as the operator knows what they are doing, whereas a reamer can be used by almost anyone to get the job close. 



#27 MiNiKiN

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Posted 04 February 2021 - 09:14 AM

 

When you hone with an adjustable reamer, how much do you take of with each pass? 1/100mm or more?

 

Hone with a ream ?  sorry it's not possible to do this, ream with a ream that's possible :)  a ream will create a nasty hole unless there is a decent amount of material in the bush to start with, ideally 0.010" to 0.015" should be left on the bush bore for reaming and you would remove that in one go, the correct tool for this job had a very low rake angle to stop the reamer from "bouncing" around in the bore.

 

A hone is a sort of grinding action and creates a much more accurate bore, much better roundness and cylindricity, as long as the operator knows what they are doing, whereas a reamer can be used by almost anyone to get the job close. 

 

 

I meant reaming anyway, not honing. Technically I of course know the differemce - because I am an engineer ;) Just got lost in translation, as I am too a non-native speaker :D

 

I just wondered how much you dial in with each pass, as seemingly I gave it a bit too much and the reamer startet to chatter a bit inbetween, if you know what I mean.

All went well once I reduced the setting on the reamer.
 



#28 sonscar

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Posted 04 February 2021 - 10:32 AM

I am a blacksmith,its a radius arm with 10?degrees rotation,not an F1 crank.I agree that accuracy is an ideal to strive for but the relative costs availability and projected use sway me towards a well executed DIY option being acceptable in lots of cases.Just my perspective as a poor owner.Steve..






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