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Gear Selector Oil Seal Type?


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#1 Tornado99

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Posted 28 January 2021 - 07:46 PM

Seen a few videos on changing out the oil seal for the gear selector. All but one show the alu spacer with o-ring in a groove, plus a standard type bearing seal pushed into the opening. 

Just saw another video where a different seal is fitted....looks to be a conical shape and overall thicker. No mention of the inner spacer:

 

 

I questioned the video creator and he says the alu spacer and bearing seal are an aftermarket solution that some feel works ok but he doesn't agree. 

 

Is this a standard seal type from older minis? 



#2 mk1leg

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Posted 28 January 2021 - 10:06 PM

use 2 rubber seals works for me never had a leak since



#3 croc7

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Posted 29 January 2021 - 04:08 AM

Seen a few videos on changing out the oil seal for the gear selector. All but one show the alu spacer with o-ring in a groove, plus a standard type bearing seal pushed into the opening. 

Just saw another video where a different seal is fitted....looks to be a conical shape and overall thicker. No mention of the inner spacer:

 

 

I questioned the video creator and he says the alu spacer and bearing seal are an aftermarket solution that some feel works ok but he doesn't agree. 

 

Is this a standard seal type from older minis? I

It is my understanding that the alu spacer is there to stabilize the rod change shaft not as a seal.  When I changed mine, I left the alu spacer in place and just changed the seal.  Worked fine.



#4 Bobbins

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Posted 29 January 2021 - 07:37 AM

use 2 rubber seals works for me never had a leak since


I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild and this is the route I'm taking. I initially planned to fit a new sleeve and seal but I felt the clearance between the new alley sleeve and selector rod was excessive ... which is where the oil leaks when the seal hardens. Instead I've fitted two seals, I'll know whether it's worked when the shell is finally sorted and back on the road so don't hold your breath!

#5 Tornado99

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Posted 29 January 2021 - 07:39 AM

use 2 rubber seals works for me never had a leak since


Does this mean two seals with the spacer if already present or only two seals, no spacer?

#6 g0myw

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Posted 29 January 2021 - 09:11 AM

I was recomended to use just 2 seals.



#7 mk1leg

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Posted 29 January 2021 - 08:49 PM

 

use 2 rubber seals works for me never had a leak since


Does this mean two seals with the spacer if already present or only two seals, no spacer?

 

just 2 std seals



#8 Spider

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Posted 30 January 2021 - 06:14 PM

It is my understanding that the alu spacer is there to stabilize the rod change shaft not as a seal.  When I changed mine, I left the alu spacer in place and just changed the seal.  Worked fine.

 

This is pretty much how these work. Some of the guys on these pages have pointed out that it's not in fact after-market but they fitted these in the factory in later years. Certainly all the quite late Gearboxes I've pulled down have had them fitted.

 

All these Lip type Seals only have a certain take up range where the Shaft needs to be within so much of the Center, outside of which, the Lips no longer contact the Shaft enough to effectively seal, or in extreme circumstances, will lift off the shaft. The Smaller the Seal, the less allowable movement or off center is tolerable. The Aluminum Bush isn't intended as a Seal in itself, the O Ring on them isn't there to seal, but as a means of mounting of the Bush and take up for the wide tolerances of the case machining where the Interlock Spool fits.

 

From Timken's Seal Design Catalogue

 

LLFzUOA.jpg

 

Timken refer to the type of seal that's usually fitted here (spring inner lip, and an out wiper lip) as a 'Type 94'. According to them, the maximum this particular Seal can be Off Centre and sill work is 0.0084" (8.4 thou). While I've not actually measured it, I've found many of these Shafts have at my reconning, up to 0.020" play (or run out), well outside the range the seal will work.

 

In some instances, the Bush in these Kits won't cure the issue and from what I've found it can be that there's a scratch in the Bore that the seal's fitted to from a previous Seal removal, the Shaft is pitted and in some, that the Bore in the Casing is distorted well beyond what the Bush will take up, sometimes from wear and sometime from having the Roll Pin bashed in. When these are found, I've sorted them with more drastic action

 

pRlglCC.jpg

 

by fitting a Bronze Bush in the Case.

 

My own experience with the Bush / Seal combination has been very good and when used within it's limits, I've found the cure the leak here every time.

 



#9 Mini Manannán

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 03:29 PM

That's a neat solution Chris.  Our solution to this problem: https://www.theminif...tor/?p=3486868  is still working well at about 20,000 miles and no drips.  And no, I still haven't got round to measuring it... :rolleyes:



#10 Spider

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 07:48 PM

That's a neat solution Chris.  Our solution to this problem: https://www.theminif...tor/?p=3486868  is still working well at about 20,000 miles and no drips.  And no, I still haven't got round to measuring it... :rolleyes:

 

Yes, I like your solution mate.

Have you noticed any oil in the tube yet ?



#11 Mini Manannán

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 07:51 PM


That's a neat solution Chris. Our solution to this problem: https://www.theminif...tor/?p=3486868 is still working well at about 20,000 miles and no drips. And no, I still haven't got round to measuring it... :rolleyes:


Yes, I like your solution mate.

Have you noticed any oil in the tube yet ?
Not nary a drop mate :-)

#12 Spider

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Posted 31 January 2021 - 09:31 PM

 

Not nary a drop mate :-)

 

 

Good work mate !
 






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