10 replies to this topic

[Edington]

Just a general question, having read posts on the subject. I'm rebuilding the clutch on my 1969 Cooper and note all the various issues in setting it up. However, I've not discovered (or perhaps missed) anything concerning the physical shape of a pre-verto clutch arm. As I've collected so many bits over the years including various clutch arms and it's these which I'm not sure why the different types are for and which is the most appropriate one to use. The attached photo shows three different ones. Do the slightly curved ones require the same length push rod from the slave cylinder?  various clutch arms.jpg   46.14K   4 downloads

[nicklouse]

the bent ones need careful examination as we often did that to compensate for wear.

 

very early cars may have had a different length rod but generally they are all the same.

[richmondclassicsnorthwales]

As Nicklouse above says,   bent to allow for worn clutches

 

The other bodge was to extend the length of the pushrod by welding a bit on  -  Guilty !!!  -  when I was 17 and earning £39 a week

[floormanager]

Knowing how much wear impacts the clutch operation, I'd buy a new one.  If money is not an issue the competition ones from Minispares or MED are supposed to be very good.

[Edington]

Given all new parts does anyone know what the deflection measurement between disengage and engaged is likely to be for a blue clutch pressure plate?  

[nicklouse]

You need at least 1/2” travel at the pushrod.

[blacktulip]

I have welded to a worn ball and reshaped it and it worked a treat. I don't know why it's called a bodge.

[MiniMadRacer]

If you are going to bodge it.. and back in the day, who didnt, build up the ball is the better "fix"... bending the arm is the next best fix, lengthening the push rod is the worst bodge...They will all get you out of trouble until the ball cracks or snaps off... build up the ball with weld is fine but time consuming to get right, and doesnt allow for plunger wear of course

[timmy850]

Any wear in any of the pivot points - especially the lower clevis and ball will cause lots of slop in the system due to the leverage ratio.

When everything is new and in spec, the clutch arm should almost be parallel to the angle of the clutch cover and the pushrod should be near the start of its travel.

If the clutch arm is at a right angle to the plunger and the pushrod is nearly all the way out you’ll have issues once everything wears over time

[KTS]

there's an excellent article on the minimania website covering the non-verto clutch operation and setup

 

https://www.minimani...FAQ__non_Verto_

[PACINO]

there's an excellent article on the minimania website covering the non-verto clutch operation and setup
 
https://www.minimani...FAQ__non_Verto_

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