22 replies to this topic

[babsbrown]

Good afternoon, does anyone torque their bleed nipples? I have a low torque wrench I use for mopeds etc... And wondered if it's a done thing? I get so nervous about stripping the threads when tightening them at times. Cheers

[Tornado99]

No. Just go by feel, a light snug is all that is needed.

[surfblue]

Can't imagine too many torque wrenches going low enough to suit a bleed nipple.

[Stevie W]

I just tighten with a small sized spanner until the nipple goes tight to indicate it seated then just the smallest of nips. As long as the nipple and seat are clean, that should be sufficient.

 

Cheers, Steve.

[babsbrown]

Cool, thanks Im so anxious about over tightening them at times , that on occasions I've not tightened them enough for fear of over tightening then found them dripping a little then having to rebleed the system. Luckily not having driven the car at all.

[babsbrown]

Can't imagine too many torque wrenches going low enough to suit a bleed nipple.

Yea I mean I have one that goes from 5-13 Nm that I use on aluminium cases , was thinking that might be suitable for the job

[Spider]

Just keep in mind, such fittings as Bleed Nipples, Tube Nuts (like are on Brake Lines) and even the Temp Sender in the Cylinder Head don't seal on the threads, but have a tapered seat on to which they seal. They shouldn't need a great deal of tightening to get a good seal, just enough to close the seat.

[babsbrown]

Thanks Spider, I will definitely bare this in mind. I think perhaps sometimes I can be a little bit too careful. It would be devestated to strip a new cooper caliper after a whole rebuild haha

[cal844]

This is one of those things, personally id leave them just nipped until they're installed, then once bled, just nip the nipple enough to stop the fluid (check for weep around threads, if there is weep go a fraction tighter, then give the caliper a clean to remove the brake fluid and reassess.

At a guesstimate I'd say that 5 Newton metres should be enough (from feel over the years)

Edited by cal844, 20 February 2021 - 10:06 PM.

[Dusky]

I’ve seen a few car manufacturers that supply torque figures for the bleed screws ( lotus, Alfa and Porsche) they were all 10-12 lbft.

[andysspanners]

Always used to do bleed nipples up to 14NM on various single seater race and sports cars i built. But also depends on the size. Brembo normally recommend torqueing them.
Ii's always a pleasure using a little 1/4" drive torque wrench..... almost as pleasurable as using a speed brace.
to be honest, i've never torqued a road car bleed nipple, always just by feel

[MiniMadRacer]

Brake lines and bleed nipples are always a compromise in getting them tight enough to not leak and not gorilla ing them so you break them....I nip them up and then dry the joints off properly and wrapa  bit of tissue around them.. then give th ebrake a good few pumps / stamps and see if the tissue has any moisture....it might just be me, but I can never quite feel with my fingers whether a joint is "damp" or not..its easy to think a joint is wet when its not, so for me.. the tissue doesnt lie

[Maccmike8]

Its just something with experience but I nip it then give it a tightening front the wrist only. Never broken one and never get a leak. But yes about 10ftlbs is about right. Get a 1/4 torque wrench, thatll go as low if you really need the comfort.

[Pete649]

I will put my head above the parapet I have a bit of a torque fetish and torque everything including bleed nipples. I can do them by feel but it's nice (for me) to know they have been tightened to spec. Just me I know

Edited by Pete649, 22 February 2021 - 07:19 AM.

[Revd]

Torque values for various fasteners are usually quoted for ‘clean dry threads’ - which is not the case when you tighten a bleed nipple lubricated with brake fluid - which is why I tighten by feel