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Long Stood Car Now Runs - What Next?


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#1 slidingdog

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Posted 02 March 2021 - 11:12 PM

I've finally got my '83 998 to run, after almost 13 years parked up and a few months of tinkering (yes I did say months, I'm more-or-less a complete novice with a spanner and don't have a lot of spare time :shy: ). I followed a ton of advice from here (thanks!!) to prep for start-up, struggled for a while to get it to fire, then after cleaning the jet and refitting this evening it fired up right on the button :D

 

Now I'm wondering what's next - is there any procedure for how to run an engine that has stood for years?

 

I want to do another oil/filter change and coolant flush (both done before starting) and of course check everything for leaks (including the new rubber fuel lines I put on). Should I just let it idle for a while (like 10-15mins?), can/should I give it some revs once warm etc? What should I be checking for, i.e. leaks, alternator voltage etc.? Timing I guess too? Feel free to assume you're talking to an idiot so don't leave out anything obvious ;D

 

Many thanks in advance,

 

Tim



#2 MiniMadRacer

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Posted 02 March 2021 - 11:22 PM

Well done on getting it all going... I would give it a few cycles of warming up and cooling down as rubbers do perish after 13 years and a few heat cycles might be enough to "break" them and spring leaks...

 

Depends if you want to do precaution work of fix on fail...

 

Check the brake hoses, and I would replace them, expect the seals to leak sooner or later too on the wheel cylinders..

 

Clutch could be stuck....

 

Grease all the nipples...



#3 wile e coyote

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 08:06 AM

13 years !  Well done....and good plan...

 

The time laid up outlives the efficiency of even the best coolants and odds are there'll be a lot of rust / debris circulating in your cooling system  - you've already changed it once - but sensible to do so again once things have circulated a bit - would reccommend completely removing the radiator to give it a through flush from both ends and ideally do same with the heater matrix. and work the heater tap manually a few times to check for smooth operation (one of the places corrosion is bound to lurk)

 

Equally the old oil left in the engine will have dropped all it's sediment over that period and despite change there may be a goodly amount of sludge left in there - run the car for a few hours  / 100 miles or so and then change again - personally I'd use an old fashioned flushing oil beforehand.

 

Brake & clutch fluid should be changed too...

 

I'd pull the brake drums - to check all movement and leak free (changing the cylinders is sensible) and have a really good look/ squeeze of all 4 cv boots and finally fit a fuel filter between tank & carb as there may well be clogging residue in the tank waiting to cause you running issues...

 

Enjoy...


Edited by wile e coyote, 03 March 2021 - 08:06 AM.


#4 Steve220

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 08:50 AM

Your tires will need changing too!



#5 slidingdog

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 02:19 PM

Thanks all, I think I've got mostly the right ideas then. Brakes are halfway done (although not touched the lines), cooling hoses all renewed (as well as new heater tap and thermostat - waterpump seemed fine so left as is), rubber fuel lines replaced and fuel filter fitted. Will add the other suggestions to the to-do list :shifty:

 

Re: oil and coolant flush (water/orifices looked quite rusty when I did the last flush with water), would regular products be fine or is there anything recommended or to watch out for?

 

Cheers,

 

Tim

 

 



#6 Steve220

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 02:26 PM

Thanks all, I think I've got mostly the right ideas then. Brakes are halfway done (although not touched the lines), cooling hoses all renewed (as well as new heater tap and thermostat - waterpump seemed fine so left as is), rubber fuel lines replaced and fuel filter fitted. Will add the other suggestions to the to-do list :shifty:

Re: oil and coolant flush (water/orifices looked quite rusty when I did the last flush with water), would regular products be fine or is there anything recommended or to watch out for?

Cheers,

Tim


for flushing out and cleaning the coolant lines, I crush 2 dishwasher tablets and put them in with distilled water and run the car for a few hundred miles, then flush it out with the hose. I've done this with both my minis and the coolant is now the same clear colour it was when it went in!

#7 cal844

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Posted 03 March 2021 - 06:28 PM

Use CLR remover to clean the coolant system, along with a new water pump once its flushed

#8 slidingdog

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Posted 04 March 2021 - 09:48 AM

Interesting use of dishwasher tablet!

 

Cal, is this the CLR you're talking about? www.screwfix.com/p/zep-commercial-calcium-lime-rust-stain-remover-1ltr/8679f

 



#9 cal844

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Posted 04 March 2021 - 10:51 AM

Interesting use of dishwasher tablet!

Cal, is this the CLR you're talking about? www.screwfix.com/p/zep-commercial-calcium-lime-rust-stain-remover-1ltr/8679f

Yes buddy that's the stuff, buy enough to dilute to its strongest ratio

Edited by cal844, 04 March 2021 - 10:51 AM.





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