
Removing Rear Suspension Knuckle Joint
#1
Posted 06 March 2021 - 05:22 AM
However, the long bar and knuckle joint don't want to come out of the rear subframe. Because it had adjustable suspension, I was able to remove the rubber spring without dropping the radius arm, is that required somehow to get the thing to come out?
I tried pulling on it, put molegrips against the nut and tap it with a hammer, tried prizing out the cup, but I guess that's never going to come out as I had to melt the front cup too when I did those.
Right now I'm considering melting the cup out with the knuckle joint still in it, but not sure if that's going to work. On top of that, it's all covered in grease and on the left side the fuel line is uncomfortably close...
#2
Posted 06 March 2021 - 07:34 AM
You might get the Cup out if you take the Ball with the Rubber Boot out first, then grip the lip of the cup with some pliers and give it a tug. It may come out of it hasn't been in too long. Tip: when fitting the Cups, I clean the socket in the arm right up (a wire wheel is great for this), then grease the outside of the cup before fitting.
It's fairly common for the bars to bend or split.
#3
Posted 06 March 2021 - 07:51 AM
The joint is only held in by the rubber boot normally.Hit it harder,Steve..
#4
Posted 07 March 2021 - 01:47 PM
I’ll go try again tomorrow or tuesday, but it’s also in such an awkward spot to get any sort of grip on, or to get some force in the hammer swings.
The radius arms are still up, is that a factor? I don’t see how it could be but maybe that is keeping the knuckle in the cup somehow?
#5
Posted 07 March 2021 - 02:43 PM
What ever works so you can get to the cup is the key
Moke mentions the plier method to remove the cup, one method I have used is the long flat head screwdriver which is half caput, you don't want to be using your bestie straight head, and get it on the edge of the cup on the arm and hit it with hammer
The cup may break up or come out in one swoop
Then as Moke rightly says, get that hole clean or as near as damn it, and grease it up or you will have a ball ache of a job getting a new cup in
I'll put it politely or I get censored - They can be a stubborn little thing !!!!!!!!!!!
#6
Posted 07 March 2021 - 03:21 PM
The rubber boot is falling to bits anyway, and is no longer seated over the lip of the cup.
I’ll go try again tomorrow or tuesday, but it’s also in such an awkward spot to get any sort of grip on, or to get some force in the hammer swings.
The radius arms are still up, is that a factor? I don’t see how it could be but maybe that is keeping the knuckle in the cup somehow?
If you mean the shock absorber is still in place then it might be better to remove it to give yourself more space.
#7
Posted 07 March 2021 - 07:26 PM
#8
Posted 12 March 2021 - 04:56 PM
Okay, managed to get it out, all I ended up having to do was twist the knuckle out by pulling it towards me, away from the car. Even then it required some force.
The knuckles had signs of scraping, however the cups weren't worn through and the openings in the subframe were completely fine. I guess maybe since the dust boots had failed over time, this allowed dust and sand to get in and eat at the knuckles or something.
#9
Posted 02 December 2021 - 07:46 AM
Has anyone heard about drilling an 1/8 hole in the Knuckle cup and another through the cup resting socket !
apparently stops the knuckle hydraulicing
#10
Posted 02 December 2021 - 09:09 AM
There is already a hole at the bottom of the socket - although it is usually blocked with dirt and paint.
I wouldn't put a hole in the cup - that would just leave a path for the grease to escape (and dirt to get in if it made it through the hole described above)
#11
Posted 02 December 2021 - 11:17 PM
Has anyone heard about drilling an 1/8 hole in the Knuckle cup and another through the cup resting socket !
apparently stops the knuckle hydraulicing
Nope. Never had an issue with it “hydraulicing” and it would just allow crud to get in and grease out as mentioned above.
the trickiest job was getting to boot to seat.
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