11 replies to this topic

[Spitz]

I am about to get back to tackling a clutch issue from a couple years back.

Pulled the engine and removed clutch , flywheel, transfer case etc.

 

Issue was the car had been very hard to get into gear for ages.....and could not really stay at a traffic light with car in geard and clutch in  All pivot points were good, new slave, master, hose, plunger, arm etc.

 

Anyway... My feeler gauges only got to .005" and I can't really get it in there to check the end float...what should it be?

Also.....I took off the thrust washer to measure it with the calipers THAT I CAN"T FIND,  and can't remember which way around the thrust goes back on.

Also....what is the stock thickness

Pictured

 

I've not driven this car for 2 yrs now.....and it's a shame.  Strong 1130 A series ...pre verto

 

Sorry for the long winded simple question.......frustration.......

Attached Files

•  Thrust.jpg   26.05K   4 downloads

[GraemeC]

The inner chamfer goes towards the main bearing of the crank.

Primary gear end float is 0.003-0.006” so your feelers should be fine (although I’d advise get some with more range!).  I can’t understand why you can’t get them in though - with the clutch/flywheel assembly removed the primary gear and its retaining washer should be very accessible 

Edited by GraemeC, 13 March 2021 - 06:49 PM.

[Spitz]

In dummy terms..... the side facing up in my picture to engine?

[GraemeC]

Looks like it - if there is more chamfer on that side than the other.

[Spitz]

Can someone tell me what the stock thickness of the primary gear thrust washer is.  Mine is 2.8mm ( .11")

I can't really get a .003" feeler in there so I think I need a slightly thinner thrust washer....... or am I wrong?

Thank you

[GraemeC]

The smallest available is 0.112-0.114”

 

has the primary gear been rebushed at any time?

Edited by GraemeC, 14 March 2021 - 06:22 PM.

[Spitz]

No it hasn't Graeme.  I have seen them elsewhere advertised at .111  I have no idea if mine is .111 or .119   only two digits on my caliper.

 

Can it be taken down slightly on a flat surface with emery cloth?

[GraemeC]

0.111” is only available for small bore cranks I think.

 

You could possibly thin down the one you have, but personally I’d be getting some decent calipers or a micrometer and find out exactly what you have first.

I’d be very surprised if a standard size thrust made the clearance too tight, so if yours is standard size then the issue is likely to be elsewhere. 

[Spitz]

Thanks...... yes, it's a 1098 crank.

 

where is another possibliliy if this isn't the cause of my clearance issue

[Spitz]

Just came across this great little video that may explain my issue

 

[pogie]

Just came across this great little video that may explain my issue

 

 

I had this problem with a new lightened flywheel from MED engineering contacting the C washer. Before taking the flywheel out of the car and sending the it back for machining, MED got me to test if the friction plate was free to spin.

 

To do this I had to take the starter motor out and then have someone press the clutch peddle, then looking through the starter hole I could see the backplate move and I then had try to turn the clutch friction plate with a large screwdriver/prybar. It did not move and so the flywheel needed machining to free up the primary gear. This test was quite easy to do with a lightened back plate but it might be a bit trickier to get to the friction plate with a standard unmachined back plate. 

Edited by pogie, 27 March 2021 - 04:29 PM.

[Spitz]

@pogie.....so you're saying that once I get it back together ( just took delivery of a .112" thrust bearing ), have someone press clutch...if I can spin the plate, all is good?