11 replies to this topic

[Betty_the_mini]

So I’ve replaced the entire braking system, new master cylinder, new bias valve, new pipe work (entirely), new rear cylinders, new shoes, new drums, new discs, new pads, callipers completely stripped, halved and rebuilt with new seals, pistons etc. Rear drums a fully adjusted, can’t get a hard pedal using eazibleed pressurised bleeder, 2 litres through it so far.... any suggestions?

 

Ps: what is the blank bolt on the calliper for that’s next to the bleed nipple? 

[lordcakes]

Some people have found that eezibleed doesn't get rid of all of the air at the rear, especially with a new master cylinder.

Try gravity bleeding, starting with the rears. I have started using a vacuum bleeder and have had good results (it was only £15 off amazon)

[Chris1275gt]

I had a nightmare after renewing my entire system, my soft pedal was caused by the front piston seals gripping the pistons and pulling the pistons back in when the pressure is released, so see how much play you have between the pads and the discs. I could get a firm pedal with two pumps of it so I was chasing bubbles that were not there.

[Betty_the_mini]

I had a nightmare after renewing my entire system, my soft pedal was caused by the front piston seals gripping the pistons and pulling the pistons back in when the pressure is released, so see how much play you have between the pads and the discs. I could get a firm pedal with two pumps of it so I was chasing bubbles that were not there.

I can’t get a hard pedal, and can see that the pistons have come out by a mm or two each side pushing the pad against the disc, so hopefully not that issue. Could be though I guess. 

Edited by Betty_the_mini, 21 March 2021 - 10:09 PM.

[Betty_the_mini]

Some people have found that eezibleed doesn't get rid of all of the air at the rear, especially with a new master cylinder.

Try gravity bleeding, starting with the rears. I have started using a vacuum bleeder and have had good results (it was only £15 off amazon)

What vacuum bleeder did you buy? A friend lent me a hand pump one that you squeeze to build up pressure but it was absolute garbage, hence buying the eazibleed. 

[lordcakes]

Yes it is just one of those cheap hand pump ones. Quality is pretty poor but it did work to bleed my clutch and brakes. Only bought it because the seals on my eezibleed failed and I thought I would try something else.

I would just add that I have used the eezibleed for several years without any problem but I have never used it for a new/dry system, only to refresh the fluid or to do a bleed after brake work

[cal844]

Just use The 2 man method.

for a totally new system you'll have to bleed from the MC first then you can connect the lines and chase the air through.

What I do is once you've got fluid out the MC you want to give 10 full pumps (or until pedal is under pressure) hold it on and crack open a nipple.


It will be messy with brake fluid so make sure you have a length of hose into a container of brake fluid, ideally you want to use the container with the hose in the fluid, observe the bubbles of air until there is none and then check the pedal is better (it should be).

You can also leave both rear cylinders open and bleed both at the same time

[Quinlan minor]

I use one of these and have found it more effective than a pressure bleeder for getting air out of the rear brake lines.

 

https://www.ebay.co....B0AAOSwfzRfes2r

 

Attached Files

•  Vacuum Brake Bleeder.jpg   24.14K   0 downloads

[Ethel]

Just get a syringe & some hose to connect it to the bleed nipples.

[Spider]

I use the Ezibleed to only get the Master Cylinder bleed, then go old school, though, on my own I find works OK on the Brakes. There is usually a residual pressure valve in the Master that aids with this, but even if there's not (as some don't), it still works as long as you have a hose going off to a jar with some fluid in it.

If you have Rubber Flexible, have you tried crimping off all of them and trying the pedal, then release them one at a time, it might show you to where there maybe some air. It may also help to bleed the brakes in this way.

 

If you have Single Circuit Brakes, bleeding by the 2 man method, you need to open the Rear Wheel Cylinder Nipple before pressing the pedal down.

 

With your rebuilt Calipers, the seals maybe dry, gripping the Piston, rather than letting them slide, so they retract much more than they normally would. Take 1 Brake Pad out at a time, pump the pedal a few times (2 or 3 is usually enough), press the Piston back in, replace the pad and continue until they are all done. This will put some fluid on the seals and allow the Pistons to slide as they should.

[Mr Meh]

Some people have found that eezibleed doesn't get rid of all of the air at the rear, especially with a new master cylinder.

Try gravity bleeding, starting with the rears. I have started using a vacuum bleeder and have had good results (it was only £15 off amazon)

 

 

Just use The 2 man method.

for a totally new system you'll have to bleed from the MC first then you can connect the lines and chase the air through.

What I do is once you've got fluid out the MC you want to give 10 full pumps (or until pedal is under pressure) hold it on and crack open a nipple.


It will be messy with brake fluid so make sure you have a length of hose into a container of brake fluid, ideally you want to use the container with the hose in the fluid, observe the bubbles of air until there is none and then check the pedal is better (it should be).

You can also leave both rear cylinders open and bleed both at the same time

 

My SPI had the same issues after a full replace with my eezibleed also. My local expert said the same as lordcakes and cal844 - the eezibleed can leave air around the rear pressure regulator, the solution was to leave both rear nipples open when pressurizing the bleeder. Did that first, eezibleed, then 2-man method to make sure and I ended up with a good solid pedal.

[Revd]

I replaced everything except the pipe work and drums on my ‘87 last year. Not having a willing pedal pumper meant I relied on an eezibleed. My method which has not let me down, is to open all four corners to begin with. Also a few pumps on the pedal before the eezibleed canister is empty. The theory being that air isn’t shuttled back and forth between front and rear circuits. Once I’ve got clear fluid and an absence of bubbles I switch to the conventional furthest corner first method. Pedal is solid.