12 replies to this topic

[victor ludorum]

I'm trying to replace the cones on my 2000 mpi, but the tool isn't biting on one side. I wondered if the tool was the wrong size, so I tried the other side of the car and it screwed in very easily. Is there any way of removing the cone without using this tool? Is it possible to destroy the trumpet and take it out that way? I've been trying to get this thing to bite for over an hour now and i'm having no joy at all.

[jomaoliveira79]

If you destroy the trumpet you can take the cone out.

 

Before that, try fitting the tool in a new cone as some new compressor tool are not very well made and need some trim in their tip to attach better to the cone. A little amount of grease in the tip of the compressor can help too.

 

First you need drilling a lot of holes on the trumpet and after that you can break it with a hammer and chisel. I've done it because I got the same problem as you on VERY old and rusty cones. 

On assembly I've fitted a pair of HiLows.

 

[Cooperman]

As above, you can break the trumpet by drilling a row of holes around it and shattering it with a big chisel and a lump hammer. Make sure you are wearing eye protection when you do this and a pair of stout gloves. Then remove the top arm and the cone vcan be prised down.

 

If you pour a load of thin oil down the hole into the trumpet it may be that the tool will engage. It is unusual for the threads to fail, but common for dirt and grit to get into the threads. Maybe try locating the tool at the top of the threads and give it a light tap with a soft mallet. Then push down as you turn it. Make sure that when engaged it has five full turns into the cone thread.

 

One more tip, when the new rubber spring is in place and the trumpet located into the cone lower rim, make sure you put a jack under the arm before releasing the tower tool. If the trumpet is not engaged accurately in the rubber cone spring before the tower tool is removed, the trumpet can cause the cone spring to be distorted and the whole thing becomes mis-aligned. then the tower tool cannot be re-engaged and the trumpet has to be smashed and replaced (again?) - been there, done that!.

[sonikk4]

Bear in mind the cone could have been replaced with an Imperial thread cone at one point. For your age of car it should be metric but you never know.

[victor ludorum]

Well it's not going however much i try. I'll sleep on it tonight and try again tomorrow. Cheers all

[MiniMadRacer]

I am sure I have removed a cone by removing the top arm and didnt need to smash the cone, or did I imagine it?

[Spider]

If the Cone has settled, you can remove them by taking out the Top Arm (which you'll need to do anyway). You'll need to remove the Rebound Stop (the L shaped one) as well.

[MiniMadRacer]

Thanks Spider, I am sure I have done it that way, and to fit the new one, I did the opposite but used a tyre lever under the top arm where the bolt goes through to jiggle the arm up and in and out until I could slide the bolt fully through... so I assembled the cone in the arm first then  the cone into the rubber in the subframe.. if that makes sense

[victor ludorum]

I removed the top arm, which as you say i had to do anyway, and out it popped! Cheers for this tip; it's saved me a lot of ball ache by the way, when the old cone came out the tool screwed in no problem, so I reckon the alignment was a bit crooked. The cone was very compressed, and not evenly so

[sonscar]

Something to watch for when replacing is that they can easily not be seated when fitted,look through the hole in the subframe to check.Steve..

[victor ludorum]

All done now after a good bit of swearing. For me, the hardest part was removing the two bolts that hold the thrust collar in place on the upper arm. A c-spanner would have helped a lot, but as I don't have one I had to remove the ECU to have any sort of access.

[Aly-g]

All done now after a good bit of swearing. For me, the hardest part was removing the two bolts that hold the thrust collar in place on the upper arm. A c-spanner would have helped a lot, but as I don't have one I had to remove the ECU to have any sort of access.

I started the job of replacing my cones today and the way I got to the two bolts on the left side of the car was to remove the front grill then use two long extension bars with a 3/8 drive socket set , the bolts were removed easy peasy but your car is maybe different to my 79 mini 1000, ....I still can't get my cone compressor to screw in the old cone though..! I'll have another go tomorrow.

 

Allan

[Magneto]

I've seen the nut break out of the cone - even on new ones......

 

A set of hi los means you'll always be able to get them out in the future (still have to remove the upper arms no matter what) plus be able to set up your suspension ride height.