8 replies to this topic

[anth]

Hey folks, after a very lengthy learning process, my engine is back in, all hooked up and.... not starting.

• It’s a 1275 with electronic ignition.
• I’ve got oil pressure.
• The starter motor is turning over.
• The mechanical fuel pump is working (fuel coming through the line into the HIF38 carb).
• I’ve got a spark in all four plugs (tested against the block, and checked with 2 separate coils and set of leads).
• I ‘think’ I got TDC using the plug one out, find the top point, check it’s the compression stroke by checking the rocker arms for movement, method).
• Dizzy rotor arm pointing roughly at 2pm, and leads connected to fire, anti clockwise, 1, 3, 4, 2.
• Tried the dizzy rotated slightly backwards and forwards as well.
• pulled plugs to check them again and they’re dry.
• Oh, and engine earth strap is in place.

I’m still VERY much learning, so may have missed something obvious. Carb issue? It came off for the rebuild, but I didn’t open it up or change anything...

 

Thanks in advance folks, and apologies if this has anyone rolling their eyes!

 

Anth

[cal844]

Make sure the battery is not old and fully charged.

How old is the fuel and battery? If its a new battery but been sat on a garage stand for 6 months it's best to return it for a fresh battery from the suppliers and fully charge it yourself

Also post an image of the distributor, the vacuum can should be pointing to number 2 cylinder

Edited by cal844, 13 April 2021 - 08:04 PM.

[anth]

The battery is a couple of years old, but been trying to start with it connected to my other car’s battery, and letting that run connected for at least ten minutes before I try turning over. Could it simply be that despite the spark being present it’s just not strong enough?

 

The fuel was brand new, fetched in a jerry can from the garage two days ago.

[Steam]

If you have spark and the timing is ballpark then take off the air filter and tip a SMALL amount of fuel straight into the carb mouth or spray carbie cleaner then crank. it should at least try to fire. if not then other problems exist. Timing, compression etc.

[cal844]

It could well be that, I had similar on my clubman Estate, I'd bought a new battery that didn't give a good enough output (had been sitting on a shelf at my mates garage for a year.) I got him to get me a new replacement from the suppliers (Yuasa battery in 063 size) it has started first time every time since then

[croc7]

Duplicate entry-thick fingers!?!?

Edited by croc7, 14 April 2021 - 05:59 AM.

[croc7]

First, rolling of eyes rarely occurs here, everyone was new at one point, right? OK, two thoughts; 1). even though fuel is coming into the carb, check that the carb float is adjusted correctly/float needle & seat aren’t stuck. 2). If you are trying to start the engine at TDC, could be that timing is too far retarded. Set the static timing at 10 degrees BTDC, using the pointer on the timing chain cover as a reference or the marks on the flywheel, insuring all of the other checks are still valid (compression check?). If the rotor isn’t pointed at the #1 terminal of the distributor cap, you may have to reposition the distributor drive to get it closer to where the rotor fires the #1 cylinder at 10 degrees BTDC. Keep us advised. Good luck.

Edited by croc7, 14 April 2021 - 05:08 AM.

[anth]

Thanks folks. 

 

I've been offered a compression test gauge so I can check that, and in the meantime will check the carb. If / when it fires up you'll likely hear me shouting from wherever you are, but I'll make sure to post in case you miss it.... 

[Steam]

Just a thought, have you checked / set tappet clearances correctly?

Edited by Steam, 14 April 2021 - 11:56 AM.