160 replies to this topic

[LittleGreenMini]

Replaced the exhaust manifolds tonight and re fitted the cylinder head.

Around 12 years ago I purchased a stage 1 kit and it came with the below style exhaust. Not saying it was from mini spares, but it’s the small bore LCB style as in the link. The fit has always been questionable and when I refitted it recently it really wasn’t sitting right, it held the exhaust really close to the tunnel and the manifold was almost sat on the pot joint.

https://www.minispar...px|Back to shop

I’ve just fitted the free flow exhaust as below and the fit is miles better. It sits well clear of everything and the exhaust is in a much better place in the tunnel. Very pleased.

https://www.minispar...px|Back to shop

Next to sort the strange heater issue out whilst the cooling system is drained (not running even though it’s got power too and from it), get it all connected back up and get it running again.

Then interior, finalise wiring, snagging and we should be ready to MOT!

Edited by LittleGreenMini, 07 February 2022 - 09:35 PM.

[LittleGreenMini]

1 step forwards 2 steps back tonight!

 

I took the heater out that worked on a direct connection to the battery. I plumbed it back in as I now know this is a wiring fault with the car which I will trace back once the battery is connected again.

 

I also fitted a shiny new DSN Classics switch panel that is designed for the vans and pickups which weren't fitted with the lower padded dash rail. It fitted perfectly and I'm really pleased with the finish!

 

 

Now for the 2 steps back. I Connected up the various ancillaries to the engine and got it ready to run tomorrow. 

Having put about 2.8l of coolant in I noticed a weeping leak between the cylinder head and the block. something similar (but less severe) was happening with the previous head gasket, hence the replacement as I thought the gasket was at fault. I'm now inclined to think its a little more drastic! I'm hoping the video works.

The head was torqued to the correct torque in two stages following the correct order. 

Any thoughts? Could the cylinder head be warped?

 

https://i.imgur.com/6YNevxj.mp4

[GraemeC]

Run the car without coolant for 30-90 seconds - just so the head gets warm to the touch. 

Allow to completely cool and then back off and retorque each head nut individually.

Add coolant and run up to temperature.

Allow to completely cool and then back off and retorque each head nut individually. 

 

Also check your torque wrench for accuracy - simplest way is by comparing to another to see if gives the same break off at a given setting (its unlikely that two are exactly the same amount out of calibration, but obviously if you get a difference you don't actually know which is wrong (unless you're comparing it to a known calibrated one)).

Another way is to hold the drive section in a vice and then hang a weigh off the handle at a measured distance from the drive - 5kg at 50cm is 25Nm and 5 litres of water is 5kg

[sonscar]

If that is real time it is leaking so badly that there must be a serious gap.I have never had success with copper gaskets.Take it off and get the head and block checked.It is almost looking like you have trapped something in the joint.Bad luck,Steve..

[GraemeC]

Couldn't view the video earlier - I'd agree to ditch the copper gasket.  Use one of these:

https://www.ebay.co....msAAOSwutZeYPej

(that might not be the best price but it looks like stocks are low across the board at the moment)

[LittleGreenMini]

Thanks for the comments.
Off with its head by the sounds of things.

I’ll splash out on the top quality gasket, if I were to hunt around for a better price what are the key words I’m looking for? Or should I just be using a composite version?

[GraemeC]

The ‘Victor Reinz’ is the key.

MiniSpares list them but show no stock. Might be worth calling though

[LittleGreenMini]

So, I had a BGA gasket in the garage which is composite and a window of opportunity opened up to be able to fit it so I've taken a risk and got it fitted instead of a Reinz one.

Fingers crossed.

 

I've run it with no coolant for 30 ish seconds warming the head up. I'll then re-torque and fill with coolant, get to temp and re-torque again.

Thanks for the comments GraemeC. I will let you know how I get on.

 

The copper gasket didn't fit perfectly and on further inspection there was a small amount of damage to the cylinder 1 bore seal.

The BGA gasket fits perfectly.

 

Now to the interior for some soundproofing.

 

On the plus side, the heater works having connected it back up :) A self healing heater!

[LittleGreenMini]

The BGA gasket, and correct process worked! No leak, and It doesn’t overheat. In fact I couldn’t get it to normal. I need to check if the thermostat is in still, can’t remember if I removed it.
There is definitely an air lock as it’s only taken 2l of coolant so far, that’s tomorrow problem! I also need to re torque one last time once it’s cool.

Time to carry on with the interior and fix some wiring gremlins. I ordered the new radio and cable over the weekend so nothing stopping me getting the carpet and seats in, I can start to reclaim the garage!

Thanks for you help and suggestions!

[LittleGreenMini]

Update time, feels like I'm getting somewhere now. The list is getting smaller.

 

Rear interior is now 99% done, just the parcel shelf to cover and drop into place once the material arrives.

rear quarter panels, arch liners, seats, speaker board, seatbelts and carpets all fitted.

 

I also made up a bracket for the high level rear brake light (yet to wire it in)

 

Made up a panel to sit under the drivers side of the dash board too, with the Bonnet internal release bolted to the underside. 

 

Next to get the new radio, USB charge point and voltmeter wired in, then figure out a way to fit the dash.

 

 

 

 

 

[Ben_O]

Lovely!