11 replies to this topic

[maystro]

I am replacing all the seals and gaskets in my rod change gearbox and the new kit just came with 1 gear selector seal which looks like that is all that  is required normally but my box looks like it has 2 or some other parts because it is twice the thickness.   Is there other parts I need to order?  

Thanks Brad

 

 diff housing selector seal1.jpg   94.48K   2 downloads

 

 diff housing selector seal3.jpg   73.61K   4 downloads

[steeley]

There a aluminium spacer behind the seal but I think on later cars only, some people fit two rubber seals

[maystro]

There a aluminium spacer behind the seal but I think on later cars only, some people fit two rubber seals

Thank's,    that is probably what my local Pommy mini mechanic did when he rebuilt the box a while ago.  It was one of the last Mokes made in Australia and their are not to many parts available where I live.  

Brad

[maystro]

Should I buy this kit which contains the alloy spacer or just buy a second seal like I have?  Either way I only have half the parts what I need?

 

https://minisport.co...i-leak-seal-kit

 

 

Thanks Brad

[alex-95]

I would get the kit or have the aluminium bit machined, it gives the rod a bit more support.

[steeley]

I would buy the whole kit

[Earwax]

if you buy the kit. drill two small starter holes in the aluminium (at say 3 oclock and 9 oclock) - later you will then be able to insert a self tapper to get it out easily . ( Not my idea, i have heard Spider mention it and one of the guys in Australia produces his version (which has an internal o ring) with the predrilled holes

[maystro]

Hi,

 

The same box but another seal question.   The new half moon seal looks to be to long.  Am I suppose to cut this so that it sits flush with the face of the box?

 

 

 Gearbox seal.jpg   38.14K   0 downloads

 

Also is it possible to pull, push or turn the rod selector and change gears while the box is on the bench.  Mine doesn't seem to do anything except attempt to move the reverse mechanism?   I just want to make sure I have put the rod change selector back in the correct position before final assembly. 

 

Thanks Brad. 

 

 

[GraemeC]

Don't cut the seal - it will compress.  Usually easier to fit it to an upturned engine and then drop the 'box on.  Don't forget the oil pick-up o-ring.

 

Yes you should be able to move through the gears with the 'box on the bench - slip a screwdriver through the hole int he selector rod to give yourself more purchase.  Sometimes you need to turn the gears at the same time to help the synchro teeth line up.

[maystro]

Thanks' GraemeC, 

 

I tried the screw driver in the rod selector and the gears try to move but wont lock in.   I noticed if trying to engage reverse which I'm guessing is when you turn the selector toward the ground and pull out the selector rod, the reverse cog is already as far left as it goes and is trying to go left further (timing cover side).  Should I have had the reverse cog/gear over to the right (flywheel side) when trying to reinstall the rod selector in it's correct position?   

 

Thanks Brad

[KTS]

to select reverse you need to rotate the selector rod fully clockwise and push in

 

with the selector rod fully anti-clockwise; pull out to select 1st, and push in to select 2nd

 

with the roll-pin drilling in the selector rod horizontal; pull out to select 3rd, and push in to select 4th

Edited by KTS, 12 June 2021 - 08:39 AM.

[maystro]

Thanks KTS, 

 

Woohoo...I just did what you said about pushing the selector in and rotating clockwise and it engaged reverse so looks like I'm good.

 

I didn't want to be buying new gaskets since I just covered them all in Permatex.

 

Just sneaking in another question.  That half moon rubber seal, do you use Permatex gasket sealant on that?

 

Thanks Brad.