17 replies to this topic

[AlasdairM]

 4D9E2B6B-B511-4E0A-B45F-4516B1676585.jpeg   76.66K   11 downloads

As seen in this pic, I cannot get this bolt to come out.

I’ve got the nut off the bottom, but the bolt isn’t budging... I’ve even whacked it with a hammer and long extension bars, but it’s not moving.

Does anyone have any ideas? I’ve got a replacement bolt, so no worries there.

Is the bolt head attached to the penny washer?

I should mention the bolt head is too rounded for a 1/2’.

[Maccmike8]

Does it turn?

 

Youve hit it from underneath?

Assuming you have, try heat and cold spray.

Penetrating oil over night.

Failing that drill it out.

 

My washer was separate from the bolt.

[Chris1275gt]

Mine was tight soaked it overnight in penetrating oil then turned it out with a spanner, the rubber had developed its own thread where it had been in so long, that's why you can't beat it out.

[AlasdairM]

Thanks guys. I’ll soak her up. I’m scared of using heat so close to the carb!!

Yeah I was whacking it from the bottom with 3 extension bars.

Hopefully she’ll come loose.

[cal844]

You might need to burn the rubber part of the Bush out then cut the spacer from the bolt

[AlasdairM]

Ok thanks. I think I’ll take it to a garage, I’ve had enough!

Just managed to change the front-rear subframe mounts tonight though. That was a job in itself!

[weef]

This is a difficult problem to resolve if the bolt will not come out by trying to drift it  from below. The make up of the bulkhead bracket is such that it will flex with each hammer blow thus negating the shock effect.

The bush is of the "metalastic" type with a spacer tube bonded to the bushing to set the compression limit when tightening the bush. The through bolt rusts to this spacer resulting in the situation you have.

Depending on what equipment you have will determine how to tackle this problem. If you do not have access to a stick welder then drilling out may be your best option. using a good quality cobalt drill it will be possible to drill the through bolt out. Not all that easy to keep central over the entire length. The heat generated by drilling can cause the bonding of the spacer tube to the rubber to fail and the whole bolt spins rather than drills. If this happens grip the bottom of the bolt with self grip pliers to prevent it spinning. Liberal amounts of cutting oil helps the drilling action.

If you have access to a stick welder then you can try this. I do not think that the bolt is attached to the large washer, only rusted up. Prep the bolt head for welding using a die grinder, dremmil, narrow belt sander or whatever you have and weld something like a 16mm nut to the prepared through bolt head using a dissimilar type rod, the rod choice is important to obtain a good weld. You may find the action of welding has generated enough heat to free things enough for the bolt to come out by drifting from underneath, give it a try first. If not then the next step can be tried. The object here is to make a puller to try and extract the through bolt. Weld a piece of threaded rod to the nut that was previously welded to the through bolt head, use something "meaty" as this is used to pull the through bolt out. Use a dissimilar welding rod again to get a strong weld, Put a tube over the whole assemble to bear on the large washer and use the threaded rod as the forcing screw to pull the through bolt out. I hope you understand what I mean.

Prep the whole area before you start, remove the bonnet, any pipes/wires or anything else restricting access to make the job easier. Fireproof things with wet cloths /fire blanket and if worried about the carb take it off.

When rebuilding use a stainless steel bolt.

Hope this helps.

[sonscar]

Use a hacksaw blade between the bracket and bar and saw through it.Tedious but cheap and guarantee fix,use discretion re safety of hands etc.Steve..

[IronmanG]

As above. Or a multi tool if you have 1 and enough access.

[AlasdairM]

Thanks for all of the advice. 

 

I don't have access to a welder, so I will try the heat method tonight with my small blowtorch. 

 

I would try the hacksaw method, but I would need to go and buy a hacksaw. 

 

If I do want to take to a garage, and need to drive it there, is there anywhere else I can attach the engine earth onto- if I cannot get the nut back on the threads?

[KTS]

..do you have a drill ?

 

if so, drill through the centre of the bolt head with increasing sized bits 'til you can knock the head off the bolt, then drive the bolt down through the bracket and out the bottom

[Ben_O]

I agree with KTS.

Thats a straightforward method and access from above to knock the bolt through once the head is removed will be much better.

[sonikk4]

..do you have a drill ?

if so, drill through the centre of the bolt head with increasing sized bits 'til you can knock the head off the bolt, then drive the bolt down through the bracket and out the bottom

The only issue with this is if the bolt has welded itself to the metal bush in the end of the link. OP you can still try this but instead or trying to hammer it through on your own with the potential to damage things, use a second person to help react the base. So basically use a heavy object like a club hammer, hold this underneath in contact with the underside of the bracket, then using a decent hammer and punch try driving the remainder of the bolt out.

And another option ( no drilling or cutting) is to a use a large enough G clamp, deep reach socket larger than the head of the bolt. All you need to do is break the Stiction of the shank of the bolt on the bush. This is a technique I have used on many a stuck bolt. Of course you can still take the head of the bolt off, use something slightly smaller than the diameter of the shank of the bolt, place the socket over the nut and go that way.

[AlasdairM]

ok thanks all. 

 

Yes I have a drill, I'm probably just a bit nervous to committing, but I shall try the heat method first, and then start drilling! I will try tonight and report back. 

 

I think I have a G clamp that will go wide enough. 

 

I should mention I can get the stabaliser arm to move left and right, and there is plenty of play in the rubbers. It just seems to be that the bolt has siezed onto the bush inside- as people have said.  

[Ethel]

Doesn't the top plate unbolt from under the master cylinder like the earlier setups?

 

It'd be a fair old embuggerance, but if you cut the head off the bolt you might get away with just slackening it.

 

Try the G clamp 1st. You could also rig something up with a pair of long bolts, or threaded rod, if you can find some bits of bracketry  chunky enough that'll go between them above & below the steady bar.

 

Stick the nut back on the bottom of the stuck bolt, flush with the end, to help keep it all pushing square & use a socket close to the right size on top - so your effort goes to pushing the bolt through the spacer rather than the spacer through the top bracket!