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Mk1 Wiper Unit To Mk3 Wiring Loom


Best Answer RobNorway , 31 May 2021 - 10:19 AM

You want to join the Red/LightGreen and Blue/Lg wires, and connect them to the wiper motor's Black/Green stripe wire (Terminal 1). (R/Lg = +12V when switch at low speed, U/Lg = +12v high speed). This provides power to the wiper whether the switch is in low or high. 

Join the Black and Brown/Lg wires to the the other wire at the motor (plain black, terminal E). (Black: earth. N/Lg: connects to R/Lg when switch in the "off" position).  The N/Lg wire will cause the wiper motor to brake/stop rapidly when the switch is turned off. Without this wire the motor will still work, it'll just take a moment or two to stop moving, making it trickier to park the blades. 

(Reference/troubleshooting: This post on gomog.com)

If you connect the wires the wrong way round (eg. both wires at the motor are plain black and you have to guess which is which) it should just blow a fuse, and you'll know to swap the wires around. Not recommended, but not the end of the world. If you're handy with a multimeter you probably want to double check that the wire colours do what they should

 

 

I also notice in your photo the plate under your subframe bolts: that's the spacer plate that's supposed to go on top of the subframe towers, it gets sandwiched between the subframe and the bulkhead box section. Without that plate the subframe makes all sorts of curious squeaking/clunking/grinding noises. There is a lock plate that goes under the bolt heads, but it's just a sheet metal plate with a couple of bend-up tabs to lock the bolts. 

attachicon.gif PXL_20210216_040626386.jpg

 

Thanks for reply. Will give this a go! 

 

Plate for subframe. I'm using a modified hydro subframe (Lugs pushed in) with rubber cones now. I found out the spacer plates were for dry subframe. When I removed the subframe, there was no spacers. I could be wrong! 

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#1 RobNorway

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Posted 30 May 2021 - 08:20 PM

Hi, 

 

I have 1967 with later model wiring loom. 

 

Mk1 wiper motor has 2 wires. 

 

I am using the later model steering column for now. 

 

Does any have a diagram on wirings to use? Is it even possible?

 

Thinking a customer switch? Might be the easy way! 

 

Thanks!  :proud:

 

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#2 growlerbearnz

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Posted 30 May 2021 - 10:21 PM

You want to join the Red/Light green and blUe/Lg wires, and connect them to the wiper motor's Black/Green stripe wire (Terminal 1). (R/Lg = +12V when switch at low speed, U/Lg = +12v high speed). This provides power to the wiper whether the switch is in low or high. 

Join the Black and browN/Lg wires to the the other wire at the motor (plain Black, terminal E). (Black: earth. N/Lg: connects to R/Lg when switch in the "off" position).  The N/Lg wire will cause the wiper motor to brake/stop rapidly when the switch is turned off. Without this wire the motor will still work, it'll just take a moment or two to stop moving, making it trickier to park the blades. 

(Reference/troubleshooting: This post on gomog.com)

If you connect the wires the wrong way round (eg. both wires at the motor are plain black and you have to guess which is which) it should just blow a fuse, and you'll know to swap the wires around. Not recommended, but not the end of the world. If you're handy with a multimeter you probably want to double check that the wire colours do what they should

 

 

I also notice in your photo the plate under your subframe bolts: that's the spacer plate that's supposed to go on top of the subframe towers, it gets sandwiched between the subframe and the bulkhead box section. Without that plate the subframe makes all sorts of curious squeaking/clunking/grinding noises. There is a lock plate that goes under the bolt heads, but it's just a sheet metal plate with a couple of bend-up tabs to lock the bolts. 

Attached File  PXL_20210216_040626386.jpg   172.76K   0 downloads


Edited by growlerbearnz, 01 June 2021 - 10:42 PM.


#3 RobNorway

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Posted 31 May 2021 - 10:19 AM   Best Answer

You want to join the Red/LightGreen and Blue/Lg wires, and connect them to the wiper motor's Black/Green stripe wire (Terminal 1). (R/Lg = +12V when switch at low speed, U/Lg = +12v high speed). This provides power to the wiper whether the switch is in low or high. 

Join the Black and Brown/Lg wires to the the other wire at the motor (plain black, terminal E). (Black: earth. N/Lg: connects to R/Lg when switch in the "off" position).  The N/Lg wire will cause the wiper motor to brake/stop rapidly when the switch is turned off. Without this wire the motor will still work, it'll just take a moment or two to stop moving, making it trickier to park the blades. 

(Reference/troubleshooting: This post on gomog.com)

If you connect the wires the wrong way round (eg. both wires at the motor are plain black and you have to guess which is which) it should just blow a fuse, and you'll know to swap the wires around. Not recommended, but not the end of the world. If you're handy with a multimeter you probably want to double check that the wire colours do what they should

 

 

I also notice in your photo the plate under your subframe bolts: that's the spacer plate that's supposed to go on top of the subframe towers, it gets sandwiched between the subframe and the bulkhead box section. Without that plate the subframe makes all sorts of curious squeaking/clunking/grinding noises. There is a lock plate that goes under the bolt heads, but it's just a sheet metal plate with a couple of bend-up tabs to lock the bolts. 

attachicon.gif PXL_20210216_040626386.jpg

 

Thanks for reply. Will give this a go! 

 

Plate for subframe. I'm using a modified hydro subframe (Lugs pushed in) with rubber cones now. I found out the spacer plates were for dry subframe. When I removed the subframe, there was no spacers. I could be wrong! 



#4 growlerbearnz

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Posted 31 May 2021 - 08:28 PM

Thanks for reply. Will give this a go! 
 
Plate for subframe. I'm using a modified hydro subframe (Lugs pushed in) with rubber cones now. I found out the spacer plates were for dry subframe. When I removed the subframe, there was no spacers. I could be wrong!


Oh right, 1967! That explains the strange bolts too. Ignore all the things I said about the subframe spacer plate! (I think I'm right about the wiring though ;-))




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