7 replies to this topic

[chilli1]

Hi All,

 

I need to replace the line that runs from the bulkhead to the rear brass splitter.

 

I've got the correct cupro-nickel replacement on the way from the super helpful folks at Richmond Classics

 

What's the best way to drain the fluid out first?

 

I was planning to empty the reservoir as much as I can with a Turkey baster, then undo the pipe at the rear and let the rest drain into a suitable container.  Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything here :)

 

Cheers

Al

[RooBoonix]

Personally I wouldn't bother

 

The system is sealed at both ends so you should only get a few drips out of each end, if any. Crimp the long pipe you're replacing at both ends before taking it off to minimise leakage out of that when you remove it.

 

Just have a couple of tupperware containers ready to catch the drips from the unions on the car, no point introducing excessive amounts of air into the system if you don't have to. If you're worried about the paint on the bulkhead, stick some tissue/rags around the union after you're removed the pipe to soak up the fluid.

 

That's what I'd do anyway... wear gloves too

[nicklouse]

A piece of plastic held over the filler by the cap stops the fluid draining out.

[cal844]

Turkey baster is the quickest way, you will need to bleed all four corners though

[chilli1]

Thanks everyone,  the fluid in there is old anyway so I plan on replacing it all.  I think I'll try and replace the front to rear pipe without losing too much then a full bleed afterwards.

[gazza82]

If you can get the old fluid out the master reservoir, you will bleed them quicker as you won't need to push all the old stuff through first .. just leave enough to avoid getting air into the master

Edited by gazza82, 11 June 2021 - 05:20 PM.

[sonscar]

Free off all the bleed nipples first would be my plan.Steve..

[weef]

I would not empty the master cylinder because bleeding an "dry" system is a real pain. To prevent any fluid leakage/drainage caused by the head of fluid in the master cylinder is to press the brake pedal and lock it in the down position before you disconnect any pipework. With the pedal in this position the head of fluid in the master cylinder is isolated from the system, no air can enter the system therefore no fluid can flow out. 

Now disconnect the pipe at the bulkhead end, note there will initially be a little pressure because you have pressed and locked the pedal, and mop up what little fluid there is. Disconnect the pipe at the rear and catch the fluid that is retained in the pipe in a suitable container, there will not be much. Remove and replace the pipe as required and connect up leaving the rear pipe union slack. Remove the pedal lock and let the pedal move to the "rest", up, position. Keeping the master cylinder fluid level topped up wait until the fluid appears at the rear union. Let it drip out for a few seconds and then nip up the pipe union. With any luck this may be all the bleeding that will be required. If not bleed the system at the wheel cylinders.