4 replies to this topic

[Matt Zane]

Hi Guys,

 

I have recently installed the 1275 cc into the Mini, and the install has gone without too many hitches, however, following installation, I have discovered the engine has a bit of an oil leak, something that I didn’t realise while it was on the stand in the garage, as I drained it of oil as soon as I was able. <FACEPALM>

 

When giving the engine a once over I noticed that it was missing a couple of bolts on the diff cover on the righthand side of the gearbox, however the lower exhaust mounting was also missing too, so I assumed this had come off while the car (a metro) was being broken.

 

As I was concerned that the side cover was missing bolts, I thought that the gasket may have been compromised, I replaced the diff side cover gasket, and ordered some new side cover bolts with the intention of pulling the lower exhaust mount from the old engine (a 998), and fitting it to the new engine when I got the engine into the car.

 

The engine installation went relatively well, but when installing the lower exhaust bracket and replacing one of the missing diff cover bolts, I discovered that one of the bolt holes in the diff housing has been stripped – if only I had checked it while the engine was out, I could have helicoiled it. <EVEN BIGGER FACE PALM>

 

Having looked under the engine the first couple of days after install, I noticed that there was an oil leak, and it looked to be coming from the gear selector shaft.

 

While the engine was on the stand I replaced the oil seal as a precaution, but that obviously didn’t do the job as oil was still escaping.

 

Following the initial install, I drained down the oil and removed the oil seal and alloy sleeve, and the O-Ring on the original sleeve was sh*gged, so I popped the new sleeve in, and added the oil seal, with an extra one on top, as I heard that was a good fix.

 

A follow-up check of the drip pan the next morning, showed that while the gear selector seal replacement appears to have helped, there is still a leak.

 

The car needs to go from the driveway, as it shared with the neighbour, and whereas they have been tolerant so far, they’re getting fed up of the car being on there, and in bits, so to ensure I don’t trail oil up the newly laid block paving I have slazzed some black rtv silicone around the diff side cover join to give me a temporary patch while I explore my options.

 

This has taken the leak down to maybe a couple of tablespoons of oil overnight.

 

Having just pulled the old engine and installed a “new” one, I am really over the idea of pulling the motor again to get the gearbox box helicoiled, so was exploring whether I could live with it temporarily while I bring up the courage to do this in the car.

 

While looking into the issue this morning, my reading suggests that the diff side cover needs to be shimmed to ensure preload on the diff bearing, I did not do that when I replaced the gasket, which has now got me worried.

 

I have three questions

 

Will I be able to drive the car with the oil leaking from the diff housing, as long as I keep on top of the oil level?

 

This isn’t a long term plan, but I had at least wanted to take the car for a spin to try out the new motor.

 

Will the car be driveable without the diff cover being correctly shimmed?

 

I ordered the correct gasket from Minispares but did not check whether the gasket had been compressed enough/ had the right clearance.

 

Is this repair, including the helicoil of the diff casing feasible with the motor in the car, or is it an engine out job?

 

I'm not scared to pull the motor again, but I'd just like to avoid it if at all possible.

 

I look forward to your advise as always,

 

Thanks,

 

Matt

 

 

 

[nicklouse]

Which bolt is it? As some do not have much metal behind them so breaking through when drilling the hole for a thread insert.

 

if the gasket was the same as the one removed you should be fine. 
 

[Matt Zane]

Hi Nicklouse,

To explain it (I'm sure you'll know), The lower exhaust bracket has three holes that the diff cover bolts runs through, its the top one closest to the front of the car.


Cheers,

Matt

[Spider]

I make a point of never using any of the bolts on the Gearbox Case, especially those on the Side Covers and doubly especially that one of yours that has stripped as all I have seen them do is just this. OK, so much for the lesson here.

 

Good news - maybe - is it is possible to Helicoil these with the engine in place. To drill them, I have used a long (very long !) extension bar on the Drill Bit, you may need to have someone with a lathe make one for you, but shouldn't cost much at all, mine's just a length of 1/2" steel bar that I drilled one end with the same drill that I use for the 5/16" UNC Helicoil, then fit 2 x M4 Grub Screws, 90 degrees apart to hold the drill bit. Depending on which holes on the Gearbox need drilling, I usually come in through the Drive Shaft Window in the Subframe, as you'd like to get them square, sometimes, the engine steadies need to be released so the engine can be tilted to get a straight shot at it. Taping with a T Handle Wrench is easy enough.

[Matt Zane]

Hi Spider,

Thanks for your response! I don't have the greatest luck with drills, I've screenshoted your suggestion, and mull it over. I think it may be a case of taking it to someone to do it for me.

Engine out again I guess! Lol

Thanks,

Matt