9 replies to this topic

[Purple Tom]

Hi guys,

I've been having problems with a recurring oil leak on the clubby, its starting to get on my nerves now!

It didn't do it initially when I put the 1275 in, as it had every feasible gasket changed (speedo drive output, speed drive casing, diff output gaskets and seals, fuel pump, oil filter housing, timing cover, timing cover crank seal, transfer case to block/box, transfer case crank seal, oil pump gasket, rocker gasket, head gasket), the entire works! The only gaskets I didn't change were the diff casing ones, as I didn't take it off, and it had no leaks there before (i left it sitting for a week full of oil to test it before I fitted it).

Its now leaking a fair amount of oil (perhaps 20 drips) each night, from the right hand rear of the engine (as you stand in front of it). I've had it up on ramps three times, and can definitely say its not the diff output gaskets or seals, they are dry. I've put a new speedo cable in, and am pretty sure its not coming out of the speedo output. The r/h (again as you look at it from the front) pot joint has oil collecting on the bottom of it, which is where its dripping from, and also a little bit of oil collects on the gearbox under the speedo casing at the back, next to the lower stabiliser bar.

Where could it be coming from? Are the pot joints hollow, ie lubricated by engine oil, so could oil be making its way through them, past dodgy seals and onto the floor? The only thing is the old engine had the same joints on and it never leaked oil at all.

I'm wondering how oil could get on the pot joints, could it be the crank seal or timing cover too? I'm thinking though if it is the timing cover how come the fan belt isn't oil contaminated?

Thanks in advance for any help, could really do with it!!

Tom :saywhat:

[Jordie]

right, got same problem. U know the pot joint rubber covers, well its not them but oil collects there. The CV cups which go into the diff have a rubber seal inside the hole. We incidently did similar to you when installing new engine, weirdly it also leaks from rear righthand side if u look at it from front.

Mini spares sell the seal at £0.63 or something, i got 2 for mine and havent put em on, job for weekend.

You need to pull the shaft from the pot joint, then knock the CV cup away from diff/engine, place the seal over or replace the current one, place the CV cup back in with even and gentle pressure, but firmly. Connect the driveshaft and your away, oil free.

[Sunshine]

one thing jordie forgot to mention, was you need to drain the oil first or you will make a big mess, ask cowboy any chance of putting up a pic for cowboy to look at where the oil is.ta

[Dan]

Sounds like timing chest to me. It'll drip down and off the rear of the gearbox. Or it could be that you need to change the pot joints. If you have changed the pot seals and put in new genuine ones properly, and they still leak they could be duff. The seal lip wears a groove in the joint socket where it is supposed to seal and eventually it is just too small a diameter to seal any more. But thats like 80,000 mile stuff. If you can see (or feel) a groove on the polished part of the joint where the seal sits, they probably need to be replaced. Should be nice and smooth.

[Purple Tom]

They are nice and smooth, and like I said never leaked on the 1098, so I think you may be right with timing cover, although I shall examine the diff output (pot) seals anyway, make sure they're seated correctly.

I will try to get a photo soon, i'm replacing the rear subframe on saturday so i'll take some then.

Tom

[cowboy]

just to help with finding out were the oil is coming from is to give the engine a good clean, steam clean at a garage or get some degreaser from a motor factors first, then go for a drive only a mile or so, then have a look to see where it is damp.

remember to clean the whole engine, frot back sides, and all the hard to get places, caution when using a pressure waher they can damage seals themselves, so be carefull around matting surfaces where the seald are

[Jordie]

yes, do drain the oil. we had that problem once, drive hasnt looked same since lol

[Woody]

I have had engine oil leaking through the pot joint, when removing an engine I split the pot joint to leave the engine sealed and when i removed the gaiter all the engine oil *Drunk or yellow human water* out this was on the drivers side and had been a mystery leak for a while no visable sign , i think it was only leaking as the shaft was spining , spraying onto the LCB and making lots of smoke .

[miniman5]

im not sure if u shud do this tell me if im ron but couldnt you gt ea presure washer on the sump and that area then ile notice do it jsut before it gets dark then in the morning u can folow the oil up to the leak. i no most mini's leak from the place where the gear linkage meets the rest of the engine mine does but its not as bad as 20 drips its like when i start her up n thats it

[Purple Tom]

the engine is spotless anyway, its in pretty much concours condition following the rebuild a month back............thats why i'm so puzzled as everything else is dry, no sign of oil running down the gearbox casing that I can see. I have some spare pot joints, i'll try changing one i think. The other thing is sometimes i'll leave it for several hours and it won't leak at all, other times i'll leave it for an hour and there'll be a small puddle, its worrying. The level in the engine has hardly dropped at all though, which also puzzles me. wierd!!