2 replies to this topic

[Mad Max]

Hi,

 

Just in the process of assembling my clubman estate after a full rebuild. I was just wondering if someone had done an in-depth guide on best order of assembly.

 

Just want to make it as easy as i can on myself so i dont have to keep undoing completed parts to fit a bit i forgot. I know things like steering rack first before front subframe but itll be one of the little bits i get caught out on.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

[Spider]

I think it depends here too, what you have to work with, how big your garage / shed is, if you have a hoist, body stand and a few other things.

 

I know your after a detailed guide, but as a basic list, I put them together from a bare painted shell roughly in the following order;-

 

Pedal Box,

Brake & Clutch Master Cylinders,

Wiring Harness, including speaker wires,

Radio Aerial Cable (if roof mounted),

Hood Lining,

Rear Trim,
Glass,

Dash,

Carpet (after fitting though, I usually remove the front piece to keep it clean)

Heater,

Seats (though, these too usually get removed after the initial fit)

Steering Rack,

Steering Column (again, sometimes this also get removed)

At this point here, anything else needed to finish off the interior, including any items previously removed,

Fit the doors out, but leave the trim off.
Fit the doors (note it is essential to fit the doors, adjust, bend, manipulate etc before the car is painted),

Final Door Adjustments, ensuring it opens and closed OK, locks, window works etc,

Door Trim,

At this stage, the interior should be complete and be able to be closed off to keep it clean,

Fuel Line (including a return if one is needed),

Front to Rear Brake Pipe,

Battery Cable,

Rear Subframe, including Rear Shocks (I build these as a complete assembly 'on the bench' and do an initial alignment before fitting to the car),
Rear Tail Lamps (where possible, I leave the lenses off),
Fuel Tank(s),

Boot Lid,
Rear Bumper,

Front Subframe (I build this too 'on the bench' complete, but leave the hubs off only to make it lighter and easier to handle),

Front Hubs (including Brakes - run Brake Hose on to Subframe and fit nuts, but I leave the Top Ball Joint loose),

Complete the front end Brake Pipework,
Bleed Brakes (if no Servo Fitted), check for leaks,

Clutch Slave Cylinder & Bleed, check for leaks. Note, it need to be a type that has the Circlip in it to allow for this,

Finish fitting out the engine bay (wipers, washer bottle (though may get removed again for engine fitting), relays, header tank, etc)

Head Lights,

Front Bumper,

Grill (though may get removed again if a Round Nose),

Power Unit (Engine and Gearbox complete),
Gear Shifter,

Exhaust System,

Wheels,

Lower to Ground and let it sit for at least a week, rolling it around a bit, rocking the suspension etc to get some settlement,
Initial Wheel Alignment (which includes setting ride height and corner weights),

Initial Engine Start and run.

 

As I fit parts or sub-assemblies, I like to test and check them as far and as best I can while at that stage and rectify any issues as I go.

 

When testing the electrics, I'd suggest not using a Battery to start with, find a reasonable power supply to do this with (and old school battery charger is good), that way, if there's a serious issue, your wiring harness is less likely to turn to ash.

[Mad Max]

Thanks for taking the time to write this up. Got a decent schedule to work too now.

Much appreciated