1990 1275 Cooper Exhaust & Carb Needle Advice.
#1
Posted 19 September 2021 - 03:45 PM
Block standard apart from pistons, now P21253-30.
Evolution 001 cam
Head is standard from factory.
The complete exhaust is all shot, apart from the manifold which is a cam6745, should I keep this or would there be benefit in getting rid?
I was thinking of keeping the Cam6745 manifold and buying a C-AEG367 Maniflow downpipe from Minispares, then attaching a complete RC40 exhaust to this deleting the cat.
The carb that came with car I believe is a Hiff44, missing it's needle. What would be best Needle as a starting point to get this engine going again, Then actually driving it to an MOT station!
I think it unlikely I be changing to a Big valve head in future, but you never know.
#2
Posted 19 September 2021 - 05:20 PM
Use the minispares inlet manifold for your carb. You'll also need new gaskets for the carb spacer. Also use the AAU needle (might need a BDL but an AAU should be close)
Regards
Cal
#3
Posted 19 September 2021 - 05:51 PM
Does the carburetter have an identification tag ?
Little triangular tag - normally on the dashpot cover, if you have that tag on it, I can tell you what it was from, and what needle was fitted
#4
Posted 19 September 2021 - 06:33 PM
Does the carburetter have an identification tag ?
Little triangular tag - normally on the dashpot cover, if you have that tag on it, I can tell you what it was from, and what needle was fitted
There was, it's in loft in a box somewhere. I will try and find it tomorrow. Just come from loft looking for other bits.
Was unsure if the spec of needle would need to be different due to rebore and exhaust. I personally have no idea.
#5
Posted 20 September 2021 - 04:18 AM
Just to clarify something. It should indeed have a HIF44 in which case don't fit a needle with the A prefix or you could destroy your engine. Cal's BDL recommendation however is a good one to try 1st on a 44 but it must be a B_ _ needle with a 44.Personally fit an RC40 with either LCB Or Cooper Free flow exhaust manifold.
Use the minispares inlet manifold for your carb. You'll also need new gaskets for the carb spacer. Also use the AAU needle (might need a BDL but an AAU should be close)
Regards
Cal
Nake sure it is a 44 though. If you put a B prefix needle in a 38 it won't start and will probably make you swear
Edited by Pigeonto, 20 September 2021 - 07:31 AM.
#6
Posted 20 September 2021 - 01:40 PM
https://imgur.com/a/ldMyZuk
This is the tag on carb
https://imgur.com/a/ldMyZuk
#7
Posted 20 September 2021 - 03:46 PM
I have just rebuilt my 1990 Cooper 1330 engine. I've fitted an LCB and it already has a twin-box exhaust. The middle box is a Maniflow cherry-bomb and the rear box is an RC40 centre-exit.
Cam is MG Metro and head has 35.6/29.5 mm valves and has been mildly gas-flowed with CR set to 10.5:1.
I can't remember what the needle is, but it might need changing with the better manifold and better head.
#8
Posted 20 September 2021 - 05:14 PM
From what I have been reading in this forum, pre 92 cars get a pre cat emission test. So hopefully no problem there.
#9
Posted 21 September 2021 - 09:13 AM
That carb is from a Montego 1.3 - 1985 on and used a BCZ needle
It is an electronic carb, which is an electric choke, not manual
Never known those fitted on a Mini
#10
Posted 21 September 2021 - 12:59 PM
Is it still useable? Hif44 carbs are quite expensive.
#11
Posted 21 September 2021 - 03:59 PM
http://sucarb.co.uk/...ter-dismantling
The choke / stepper assembly on manual and electric carbs are 2 different animals
With electric carbs, the body is designed to take a stepper motor - which puts the fuel from the choke mechanism through into the carburetter differently.
The above top link shows you the body of a manual choked carb in HIF form
The idea of the solenoid is that it is wired to an electric thermometer in effect , and when the thermometer gets hot enough, it switches off the electric choke (just trying to keep this simple - easier to follow)
Early Automatic Enrichment Devices (AED) worked on a more or less same scenario, but was shut off by warm air entering the device as opposed to been told to shut off by an electronic thermistor
I have not seen an electronic HIF fitted on a Mini - but never say never - someone may have tried it - but I don't know
And "Yes" HIF44 carbs are not cheap - supply and demand - I got one on a water heated manifold, K & N filter fitted all for £30 back in 1985
#12
Posted 21 September 2021 - 09:37 PM
The linkages looks like it has throttle and choke. There's no stepper motor. But some sort of vacuum unit.
Choke? https://imgur.com/a/FtHAGPE
Figured out the solenoid thing is an ORFCO valve. Is that an overrun device?
ORFCO valve https://imgur.com/a/xcYB7C1
#13
Posted 22 September 2021 - 07:53 AM
Have a look at this site
https://maestro.org....ncovered?t=3102
That looks another animal altogether to what I have in my catalogue. While the choke and accelerator side looks like it could simply connect straight up,
I can't comment on the valve side of things except from reading the above article
The valve side of things is something I could not comment on - never worked with them or on them
#14
Posted 22 September 2021 - 08:31 AM
Use a BDL needle, which is what is in my wife's 1330 with an evo 01. Just been on rolling road and the needle didn't need modifying to give 89 bhp.
#15
Posted 22 September 2021 - 03:09 PM
Use a BDL needle, which is what is in my wife's 1330 with an evo 01. Just been on rolling road and the needle didn't need modifying to give 89 bhp.
Sounds good, decided to go with BDL needle, when I have decided what to do with my current carb situation.
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