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Running Hot At Idle


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#1 jeroendewil

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 09:16 AM

Hello,

I have a 1275 engine with stage 3 head mg metro cam and hiff44 which is running hot at idle. Ik also have performance 2 core minispares radiator high flow water pump, large water pump pulley and dry deck.

Can the overheating be deu to the aldon yellow which is missing vacuüm advance?
Engine overhaul +-3000km ago.
Mini runs well for the rest. Little bit Lumpy at idle buy migth be deu to the vacuüm advance missing.

Is It better tot change the dizzy to one with vacuüm advance? And if yes, which one Will suit best?

Mini is mostly used as weekend warrior

Thanks !

Edited by jeroendewil, 05 October 2021 - 09:17 AM.


#2 cal844

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 09:29 AM

No vacuum advance won't cause the running hot at idle In my opinion.

Test the strength of your coolant mixture and then pressure test the coolant system.

Have you tried running the car with the heater circuit open and the heater fan on, if not give it a try to see if it helps at idle.

#3 sonscar

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 11:01 AM

Timing too retarded at idle heats things up pretty quickly.Different engine but my 998 runs about22 degrees with vacuum connected.Look at the exhaust manifold in the dark,the dull red is very attractive.Steve..



#4 Cooperman

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 12:36 PM

Timing too retarded at idle heats things up pretty quickly.Different engine but my 998 runs about22 degrees with vacuum connected.Look at the exhaust manifold in the dark,the dull red is very attractive.Steve..

 

That sounds the most likely. Once the revs increase the advance also increases and the timing is then corrected a bit.



#5 jeroendewil

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 02:43 PM

No vacuum advance won't cause the running hot at idle In my opinion.

Test the strength of your coolant mixture and then pressure test the coolant system.

Have you tried running the car with the heater circuit open and the heater fan on, if not give it a try to see if it helps at idle.


Heater was removed from the car. I Will change the coolant and double check the timing at idle. Is It correct to Place It at 8 degrees?

#6 viz139

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 10:18 PM

What is your idle speed? It sounds like you may have changed the cam, vacumn  can help you lower the idle speed on hotter cams. Also check that your fuel is not too lean at idle.



#7 Tornado99

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Posted 05 October 2021 - 11:31 PM

First, confirm what the temp actually is using a known good thermometer (note those infrared type temp readers can be wildly incorrect b/c they are very dependent on exactly where they are being pointed at....the laser dot is NOT the area being measured, that is just a general aiming aid). There's a recent thread here showing significant differences in readings between different dashboard temp guage types. 

 

Is the fan blade on the correct way around? A common mistake that will reduce the airflow through the rad. You stated a larger pump pulley is in use...so that will make the blade spin slower than stock. 

What thermostat is being used? 



#8 sonscar

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 10:54 AM

Thermostats do not cool your engine,they help it get hot more quickly.Once they are open then they are open.8 degrees is possibly too retarded for idle,lean mixtures need more advance than rich mixtures.Recurving,vacuum advance,programmable ignition may deliver better results.Just my amateur bodgers thoughts.
One problem home ECU tuners seem to have difficulty with is giving the engine what IT wants,rather than what some 30 year old book suggests.Others experiences could be wildly different.Steve..

#9 jeroendewil

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Posted 24 August 2023 - 02:16 PM

appertly was deu to the water pump. The distance between the impellor and the housing was to big (production issue it seems). With e new water pump, cooling was even to good.






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