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Help With Suitable Supercharger Distributor


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#1 sam138

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 07:08 AM

I had my 1275 supercharger ( suck through) on the rollers yesterday with Peter Baldwin and it was all going well until he could not get the  Distributor  linked below to work underload. He's advised the unit is faulty and the module basically is heating up due to poor Chinese quality. I watched the rolling road screen and could see the advance curve monitor (graph) going off the page as the unit was failing. He tried a second coil just to double check but all lead back to the faulty distributor. 

 

Distributor, with electronic ignition, – Vmaxscart

 

 

Can some please advise what others are running on there Vmax supercharger kits ? I'm looking for something that is an easy install so i can get it running and back over to Peter for a rolling road session. 


Edited by sam138, 06 October 2021 - 07:10 AM.


#2 Steve220

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 07:39 AM

I'm running DTA, but other systems such as megajolt, are ideal.



#3 sam138

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 08:13 AM

Thanks for the reply, has anyone used the Aldon Amethyst ? 

Buy Aldon Automotive Amethyst Mappable Ignition System | Demon Tweeks (demon-tweeks.com)



#4 Ethel

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 08:36 AM

https://www.google.c...sclient=gws-wiz

 

 

I can't see it being quite as good a something with a crank sensor & coil pack, but it'd certainly be easier to fit.



#5 sonscar

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 10:57 AM

Go for a toothed crank wheel and programmable ECU,you will not regret it.Steve..

#6 Nial81

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Posted 06 October 2021 - 09:04 PM

I'm using a 123 programmable bluetooth dizzy. It can advance and retard for boost or vaccumm

#7 Chris.Williams

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Posted 07 October 2021 - 07:10 PM

I’m running a 123+ Bluetooth dizzy. Best of both worlds.

#8 sam138

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Posted 09 October 2021 - 07:09 AM

Thanks for the reply’s, I went for the Aldon Amethyst in the end. Can someone who has this kit advise how the static timing is set ? The instructions suggest the below however what does it mean by specific timing with just the ignition turned on ? Like 9 degrees at TDC or lining up the crank notch with 0 degrees at TDC ?


Now turn on the ignition. The LED on the Amethyst unit should be on when the coil is on (i.e. with the points closed on a traditional system), and off when the coil is off. You should see the LED turn on and off as you turn the engine by hand.
Adjust the distributor so that the LED turns off just as the engine passes the vehicle manufacturer's specified timing point.
At this point, you can re-fit or tighten the spark plugs,

Edited by sam138, 09 October 2021 - 07:20 AM.


#9 sonscar

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Posted 09 October 2021 - 11:50 AM

Dont over think it.Set to whatever degrees BTC in the manual and twiddle until the light goes out.Just like setting points with a light bulb(is this still done?)Start it up and amaze yourself by the adjustability you now have,Use a light to verify the timing is doing what it should and is not likely to be destructive then get it dynoed.Have lots of fun,Steve..



#10 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 24 November 2021 - 08:50 PM

Thanks for the reply’s, I went for the Aldon Amethyst in the end. Can someone who has this kit advise how the static timing is set ? The instructions suggest the below however what does it mean by specific timing with just the ignition turned on ? Like 9 degrees at TDC or lining up the crank notch with 0 degrees at TDC ?


Now turn on the ignition. The LED on the Amethyst unit should be on when the coil is on (i.e. with the points closed on a traditional system), and off when the coil is off. You should see the LED turn on and off as you turn the engine by hand.
Adjust the distributor so that the LED turns off just as the engine passes the vehicle manufacturer's specified timing point.
At this point, you can re-fit or tighten the spark plugs,

 

How did you get on with the Amethyst? 

I am looking for an ignition setup for a 1310 engine I am building, I may start with the build remaining Naturally Aspirated, but with a view to converting to FI (Supercharger), at a later date when I get everything sorted out.

The engine is not yet fully built up so I am able to adjust a few things, but want to be able to add a Supercharger later without having to remove the engine.

 

One area that needs changing is the Ignition, so I have been advised to go with a mappable ignition that will suit the FI setup (but will work with the NA setup initially). 

I thought about an Amethyst as it appeared to be good and cheaper than a Megajolt setup, however everyone is telling me that I should go with a trigger wheel from the get go?



#11 sonscar

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Posted 24 November 2021 - 09:05 PM

If you are serious about injection bite the bullet and buy an ECU and fit it now with a trigger wheel and run it ignition only at first.Saves cash and reworking stuff.You then have the parts in place for that idle Sunday when you awake and say,I will inject that mini TODAY,Enjoy the journey,Steve..

#12 timmy850

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Posted 25 November 2021 - 04:47 AM

So when you say “FI” do you mean forced induction or fuel injection?

Theoretically the trigger wheel is a better system as for every complete engine cycle you get 72 data points (based on a 36 tooth wheel) rather than the 4 pulses from the distributor. You can also use more modern coil

You will probably need to remove the lower pulley to add a supercharger pulley, so that would be a good time to add a trigger wheel in the future.

Another distributor trigger option is the CB Performance black box, it has a 16x16 table for rpm/map timing which is higher resolution than the Aldon
https://www.cbperfor...dule-p/2013.htm


Edited by timmy850, 25 November 2021 - 09:14 AM.


#13 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 25 November 2021 - 08:43 AM

Sorry FI = Forced Induction




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