18 replies to this topic

[Classic1275cc]

Hello

A few years ago a slave was put on this mini with a metro engine and the clutch bite point was incredibly low like a nats hair off the stopper and it moves

I’m refreshing break booster and master so while that’s out the way I thought I would have a look at this slave

How do I adjust the bite point do a more reasonable 1/4 off the carpet so you speak? I assume it’s at something to do with those big nuts on the end? And yes that slave hose is also getting changed! Don’t know why a new one wasn’t put on at the time

Edited by Classic1275cc, 24 October 2021 - 07:47 PM.

[nicklouse]

Depends on the clutch assy. If yours is Verto you can not. 

[Classic1275cc]

 mini.jpg   47.11K   26 downloads

[Classic1275cc]

Depends on the clutch assy. If yours is Verto you can not. 

Took a while to post a picture i think its the verto?

[nicklouse]

 

Depends on the clutch assy. If yours is Verto you can not. 

Took a while to post a picture i think its the verto?

 

Self adjusting. Nothing you can do other than have the pedal position changed by cutting and re welding.

[Classic1275cc]

Seems a bit sus that just by changing a slave the bite point moves so much and the only alternative is surgery of the pedal? Different brands of slave?

[nicklouse]

More likely still some air in it.

[KTS]

wear in the clutch linkage will, over time, result in the bite point sinking toward the floor

Items that need to be inspected and replaced if worn are the clevis pins on the clutch pedal and both pins on the clutch arm, as well as the end of the clutch arm that engages with the main pivot pin.

[Classic1275cc]

I’ll examine them, although the only variable here is the changed slave as it was a good bite point before the slave sprung a leak and this new one fitted (not by me) I’ll examine all the linkage, put a new pipe on and bleed it for the 3rd time and see how it is.

[mini-mad-mark]

Hard to see on the picture but the throw out stop nuts (the "big" nuts) do look to be adjusted very close to the cover - could be you are only just engaging the clutch when you press it so the clutch is almost disengaged making it seem to bite immediately/close to the floor

 

As mentioned could be wear in one or more component and the fact it happened when the slave was changed was just a coincidence as it could already have been border line.

As also mentioned changing the slave on its own shouldn't have an effect unless something else was changed/adjusted/moved.

 

Try re-adjusting the throw out nuts and see if that does anything

[nicklouse]

Hard to see on the picture but the throw out stop nuts (the "big" nuts) do look to be adjusted very close to the cover - could be you are only just engaging the clutch when you press it so the clutch is almost disengaged making it seem to bite immediately/close to the floor

 

As mentioned could be wear in one or more component and the fact it happened when the slave was changed was just a coincidence as it could already have been border line.

As also mentioned changing the slave on its own shouldn't have an effect unless something else was changed/adjusted/moved.

 

Try re-adjusting the throw out nuts and see if that does anything

Looks like 6.5mmish to me.

[coopertaz]

as well as checking pivots for wear wind stops fully off and take dust boot off and check how far slave cylinder is throwing out

[mini-mad-mark]

As Nick said could still be air in it so you are only just engaging the clutch (not getting full travel due to the air being compressed before the clutch is engaged)

[super6al]

Hi

Agree with above,as well as the slave condition its worth checking for wear. I'm overhauling my engine & have just stripped my clutch down. Found quite a lot of wear in the pivot clevis pins. I also had to replace the plunger & arm as both were worn where the ball locates in the plunger. Doesn't like it had seen grease in a long time.

Alan 

[Miki Leyland]

Check the pin which links the pedal with the master cylinder. Not easy access though