11 replies to this topic

[Moggyman60]

can anyone suggest the easiest way of installing the old cooper style engine with the remote section sticking out

from behind the engine? I am trying to find a way of tilting the motor enough to miss the bodywork, i have seen some

people attaching things near the spark plug area to be able to get the tilt angle??.....doesn't that risk damaging that

area?  any help would be appreciated.

cheers Andy

[nicklouse]

What are you using to attach the engine to the hoist? How built up is the engine? Pictures help.

 

not really much different to a later engine.

[GraemeC]

The ‘best’ way is probably the original style Sykes Pickavent bracket that fixes to two head studs and has two settings for the chain.

https://www.theminif...ttach_id=194769

Personally I use a single lifting bracket secured onto the front centre head stud and never had a problem.
http://www.minispare...|Back to search

After that there are many way, from eyelets screwed into the spark plug holes to just using rope/strapping wrapped around the engine.

Hickey Race Engineering in Ireland are also producing a bracket that looks quite good.

Edited by GraemeC, 04 December 2021 - 10:24 AM.

[Gilles1000]

Isn't it easier to remove the rod change casing?

There is afaik only grease in it and the fork is not clamped with the finger or do I see it wrong?

I would do like that, install the engine and reassemble the casing after.

 

I never did this, but this is how I would do that.

[GraemeC]

You should remove the remote extension, yes.
But the tail of the gearbox is still longer than the later rod change boxes.

[floormanager]

Did mine earlier this year.  I used the Sykes Pickavant bracket to get the correct angle.  What surprised me is I had to take off the rad side tappet cover to clear the hydrolastic pipe bracket on the bulkhead.  It's tight to get in and out.  Rad can stay on, carbs off.

Paul

[johnR]

I use a heavy strap to lift my engines - this allows you to tilt the engine within the strap

[Moggyman60]

many thanks everyone for all your replies will be attempt to install my engine today.

regards Andy

[Gaz66]

Whenever ive installed a remote box and engine ive used two front head studs so the engine is slightly tilted backwards.
I always fit the rad after the install as its no big hassle to fit it afterwards and avoids any damage when rocking and tilting the engine to get the tail of the remote box under the back of the subframe.
And yes, put the gear linkage on after install too.

[timmy850]

I agree with Graeme with regards to the lifting point. Having the balance point ahead of the engine gives the right tilt for a remote gearbox.
 
A simple eyelet works fine on the centre stud

 
 
The Sykes bracket is also really good (available from minisport). It also has an alternate hooks for rod change gearboxes which is a bit more upright

[Compdoc]

I use one of these: Obviously designed for in line engines but with a bit of adaption works OK, and a third the price of the Sykes bracket from Minisport.

 

https://www.ebay.co....kp:BFBMuJOfjbVf

 

 

[cal844]

I use one of these: Obviously designed for in line engines but with a bit of adaption works OK, and a third the price of the Sykes bracket from Minisport.

https://www.ebay.co....kp:BFBMuJOfjbVf

Works well for me too